PLATEAU DU COSCIONE – YOUR ULTIMATE OUTDOOR ESCAPE IN CORSICA

Discover Plateau du Coscione, a nature lover’s wonderland of green high-altitude meadows, freshwater ponds, and giant granitic boulders, where horses roam free embodying Corsica’s invincible spirit of liberty.

This extraordinary territory comprising Monte Incudine Massif offers truly unique luscious landscapes rich in abundant biodiversity, fulfilling outdoor sports opportunities, and awe-inspiring views.

Unlike any other place on the island, the plateau’s verdant marshlands evoke in visitors a profound sense of peace and reflection allowing them to appreciate the natural world away from the coast’s hustle and bustle.

Read on to uncover Coscione’s soothing charms and learn how to make the most of your visit. This hidden treasure of the Mediterranean is sure to grant all adventure seekers unforgettable experiences.

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LOCATION

Plateau du Coscione is located near the charming town of Quenza in the Corse-du-Sud department, at an altitude of 1500-1700 meters. Being part of the Alta Rocca region, it enjoys close proximity to the iconic Aiguilles de Bavella.

DISTANCES

• 11 kilometres from Quenza to the south part of Coscione (despite the short distance, the car trip may take up to 1 hour due to its badly damaged condition)
• 57 kilometres from Porto Vecchio (1h 45min by car) to the south part of Coscione
• 18 kilometres from Zicavo to the north part of Coscione
• 75 kilometres from Ajaccio ( 1h 45min by car) to the north side of Coscione
• 60 kilometres from Propriano to the north side of Coscione (1h 30min by car)

CAR ACCESS

You may reach Plateau du Coscione by car either from the north or from its south side.

The most popular option, from the village of Quenza to the southern entry point is easy but suitable only for vehicles equipped with high suspension, ideally proper 4×4 cars. The access road is badly potholed and bumpy, its last stretch is the most challenging. Leave your vehicle by the Bucchinera refuge.

If you arrive from Ajaccio follow the eastward T40, turning into D83-D757A towards Santa Maria Siché and Zicavo. The last 18-kilometre section via a narrow D69 ends with a small parking area at the beginning of Coscione’s northern entryway.

UNIQUE GEOLOGY OF POZZINES

The expansive green pastures of Coscione are punctuated with pozzines (pozzi), small water holes, supplied by a maze of streams crossing the spongy grasslands. These unique natural formations are remnants of the ice age, when the melting glaciers turned into lakes, and slowly filled with sediment. Today, the crystalline pozzines constitute a unique, fragile ecosystem protected by the Regional Natural Park of Corsica.

ESSENTIAL FACTS

• Plateau du Coscione spans about 70,000 hectares within four communes- Zicavo, Aullène, Serra di Scopamène, and Quenza.
• It features an extensive marshland dotted with streams and freshwater pools called pozzines, forming a peaceful protected ecosystem.
• Coscione shelters endemic Corsican plants such as blue aconite and purple foxglove, as well as wild horses, Corsican pigs, goats, and cows roaming freely.
• This green oasis is renowned for family-friendly hiking with well-marked trails and easy terrain compared to other Corsican mountain areas.
• The meadows are a part of the Regional Natural Park of Corsica which comprises nearly 40% of the island’s territory.

HISTORY AND TRADITIONS

Coscione’s longstanding pastoral traditions are intertwined with the island’s cultural heritage. The practice of transhumance goes back centuries when shepherds brought their herds to the highlands for summer grazing.

In the 19^th century, the plateau was home to a significant shepherding community with nearly 150 families occupying the area. Several stone bergeries within Coscione (Matalza, Bassetta) bear witness to the bygone times.

Today, visitors may taste delicious local specialities produced in the area, such as cheese, charcuterie or homemade jams. Bergerie I Croci serves copious boards filled with mouthwatering Corsican delicacies on its open-air terrace with superb views of the surrounding mountains.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Plateau du Coscione is a perfect place to escape summer’s heat, offering fresh air and pleasant temperatures. Featuring high-altitude climatic conditions, it also experiences strong winds and changeable weather. Even in high season, you should bring a windbreak and headwear to protect yourself in case of cool gusts.

In winter, Coscione often receives snow turning into an extensive white wonderland crossed by the murmuring streams. Children particularly appreciate this location where on the plateau’s gentle hills they enjoy sledging and skiing.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Bursting with indigenous, diverse flora and fauna species that create distinct ecosystems, Corsica’s largest high-altitude plateau is a feast for nature and wildlife lovers. Strolls along Coscione’s footpaths will allow you to explore the natural world in close proximity, with many delightful places to stop and enjoy a relaxing picnic in the midst of nature.

NOTABLE ENDEMIC PLANTS

• Corsican aconite (Aconitum corsicum) – A beautiful protected but highly toxic plant with violet flowers blooming in summer (do not touch it when exploring the plateau).
• Trisetum conradiae – endemic Corsican grass.
• Trisetum gracile – endemic grass, also found in Sardinia
• Herniaire de Litardière (Herniaria latifolia) – A rare perennial plant with long hairs.
• Aquilegia Litardierei – A perennial meadow species with small blue flowers.
• Senecio rosinae – an annual herbaceous plant native to Corsica.

WILDLIFE

Plateau du Coscione is a veritable wildlife playground where you can enjoy close encounters with various animals in their natural habitat, making you feel like you are partaking in a safari tour. The untamed scenery with snowcapped peaks looming behind the horizon will create a striking backdrop to your outdoor adventure.

HORSES

At Plateau du Coscione, you will be mesmerized watching beautiful wild horses chasing the wind in perfect freedom. Luscious grasslands with plentiful water provide ideal conditions for these noble animals to thrive. Make sure you bring a camera to capture nature’s captivating spectacle.

PIGS

Children, on the other hand, will adore free-roaming Corsican pigs grazing in their natural environment. Whether busy seeking nourishment or lazing about with the little ones in the rocky blocks’ shade, they guarantee an irresistibly cute, mood-boosting performance.

COWS

The plateau is also home to an indigenous cattle breed known as Corsicana. Tan in colour, adaptable and curious, the cows benefit from Coscione’s vast natural pastures. As animals may behave in an unpredictable way, admire them from a distance without approaching.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

Plateau du Corsione is a very popular destination among enthusiasts of the great outdoors and lovers of open-air pursuits of all skill levels. Sports may be practiced year round with each season offering different attractions.

HIKING

GR20

The iconic GR20 trail passes through Plateau du Coscione, an ideal resting place for tired hikers. Local bergeries and refuges provide explorers with simple accommodation, hot showers and tasty meals composed of locally sourced ingredients.

SENTIER DE PUNTA DI GHJAVINGNOLU

An easy 2-hour hike (4,95 km) departing from the Bucchinera refuge in the south part of Plateau de Coscione to a rocky summit offering a 360° panorama of the surrounding mountains.

SENTIER DE L’EAU (WATER TRAIL)

A family-friendly short hike (3,80 km) running alongside the streams and pozzines where visitors will have a chance to admire not only the plateau’s aquatic features but also wild horses, strolling Corsican pigs, and grazing sheep.

SENTIER DES BERGERS (SHEPHERDS’ TRAIL)

A longer (8 km), all-encompassing trail departing from Bucchinera into the heart of Plateau du Coscione. In around 3.5 hours you will see the marshland’s emblematic landscapes, its pozzines and granitic blocks, old sheepfolds, and free-roaming animals.

SENTIER DE LA PIERRE (STONE TRAIL)

An easy short (3 km) hike exposed to the mineral scenery of the plateau, punctuated with imposing rock formations. It takes under 2 hours to complete and travelers will have an opportunity to watch animals in their natural environment.

SENTIER DE PUNTA DI RINUCCI

This 4-kilometer moderate hike follows the stone trail, eventually reaching the Punta di Rinucci summit. Atop, you can take in spectacular views of the plateau and the mountains. As is the case with the above treks, the starting point is the Bucchinera refuge.

ASCENT OF MONTE INCUDINE

To conquer the famous peak of Monte Incudine (Alcudina in Corsican), south Corsica’s highest mountain, follow the shepherds’ trail until Bergeries de Chiralbedda, then climb towards Bocca di Chiralba, where there is a junction with GR20. The path continues its progression towards the ridge to reach the summit (2134 m).

The hike difficulty is considered moderate and the round trip takes around 6-7 hours to complete. It should only be undertaken by experienced hikers in favourable weather conditions.

HIKES BROCHURE WITH A MAP

The Alta Rocca tourist board has created a well-designed useful brochure with a map of key hiking trails on Plateau du Coscione. You may download the leaflet here https://www.alta-rocca.com/files/fiche/540/brochure-cuscionu.pdf.

CYCLING

Plateau du Coscione is one of the best cycling locations in Corsica. Its entire territory is crossed by a wide 10 kilometres-long dirt track running in the north-south direction, allowing bikers to explore the plateau’s large area.

You can either participate in a guided tour of Coscione, rent a mountain bike (or an e-bike), or bring your own two wheels. The road is not completely flat but its hills have a moderate elevation gain suitable for anyone in a decent physical condition.

Guided tours include an electronically assisted bike adapted to age and height, a qualified instructor, a helmet, and a delicious lunch made of local specialities. Children in particular enjoy this activity, where they can experience nature and wildlife while having fun riding deep into the highlands.

HOW TO SPEND A BIKING DAY AT COSCIONE?

An ideal day adventure could include a morning e-bike tour of Coscione (approached from the north) followed by a hearty meal at one of the sheepfolds, with an afternoon visit to the Pont de Camera cascade in Zicavo. Water in the torrent is very cold but once you get in, you will appreciate its rejuvenating powers on a hot summer day.

SNOWSHOE WALKING

Plateau du Coscione is a snowshoeing paradise that attracts both locals and tourists. With its gentle terrain and calming views of snow-covered peaks, and vast open spaces, it provides an ideal setting for family-friendly excursions.

The trails are designed to accommodate various skill levels, making them suitable for everyone from beginners to seasoned athletes. Guided tours are available, offering participants the chance to explore the plateau’s charming pozzines and observe the untouched nature. Equipment is typically provided by guides or can be rented from local ski stations.

• Find other winter activities popular in Corsica

BERGERIES AND REFUGES OF COSCIONE

BERGERIE DE BASSETA

Bergerie de Basseta is located on the north side of Plateau du Coscione at an altitude of 1360 meters. It offers accommodation for hikers with 30 sleeping places in four dormitories, as well as chalets for those seeking more privacy.

Open from May to October, the bergerie provides a welcoming stop for trekkers on the GR20 trail. Guests can enjoy a family-style cuisine rich in authentic Corsican products, including homemade charcuterie. The refuge also offers tent rentals and half-board options for both dormitory and chalet stays.

MATALZA

Refuge de Matalza (north side of the plateau) is open from May to September and serves as a rest point on the new GR20 route, offering lodging (dormitory and a camping area), catering, and a welcoming atmosphere for hikers exploring Coscione’s scenic beauty. Additional amenities include a grocery store, potable water source, Wi-Fi, and sanitary facilities with hot showers.

I CROCI

Bergerie d’I Croci is known for its culinary delights, picturesque setting, and friendly ambience. The refuge offers 24 sleeping places in three dormitories, hot showers, and a panoramic terrace with a stunning 360° panorama of the plateau.

Guests can enjoy homemade meals that include farm products- charcuterie, jams, grilled meats, and cheese. Open from May to October, I Croci is located six hours from Usciolu and three and a half hours from Asinao. Interestingly, I Croci is a great place to admire enchanting sunset views.

4 BEST GUIDED TOURS AND ATTRACTIONS

GUIDED BIKE TRIP OF COSCIONE

Enjoy an exciting guided bike tour of Plateau du Coscione where you will experience Corsica’s natural paradise of green meadows, crystalline pozzines, and diverse wildlife. Lunch made of local products is included in the price.

4×4 TOUR OF COSCIONE

Partake in a thrilling 4×4 off-road Plateau du Coscione adventure in the magical scenery of the highlands. The journey starts in Porto Vecchio and lasts 8 hours. During your trip, you will also enjoy a delicious lunch and a stop for a revitalizing dip in a river’s natural swimming pools.

GUIDED HIKING TOUR OF COSCIONE

Join a guided hiking tour of Plateau du Coscione to explore the highlands’ sublime landscapes sheltering rare plants and wildlife. You will walk along the murmuring streams and rocky outcrops, watching animals run free. Pick a morning trip with a picnic or a sunset adventure accompanied by a meal in a local bergerie.

BIKE RENTAL

Rent a mountain bicycle to discover the untamed scenery of Plateau du Coscione, with its verdant marshlands, freshwater pools, and free-roaming horses. Choose between a half-day or a full-day option.

BEST TIME TO VISIT PLATEAU DU COSCIONE

Plateau du Coscione is a fabulous year-round destination with each season offering an entirely different experience. Although the best time to visit this natural gem depends on the activity you like to pursue, summer is considered the most fulfilling period to explore the plateau.

SUMMER

Summer is the most popular visiting period when tourists looking to escape the sweltering coastal heat head to the mountains. Unlike many other renowned spots such as Bavella or Vizzavona, Plateau du Coscione remains crowd-free even in the height of the season.

At this time, you will experience the rare Corsican Aconite in full bloom ornamenting the green meadows with their vibrant violet hue. It is also the best moment to watch free-roaming animals in their habitats.

Hiking and mountain biking are the favoured summer activities.

AUTUMN

Autumn continues to attract hikers and nature lovers to Plateau du Coscione, but temperatures drop and days get considerably shorter. More abundant rainfall supplies the streams and pozzines with water making the meadows turn intensely green.

WINTER

Winter can bring snow to the vast expanse of Coscione granting visitors opportunities to enjoy snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The bright Mediterranean sun rarely fails in Corsica, making winter activities especially attractive.

SPRING

Spring is a uniformly fabulous time to discover Corsica’s lush nature and Plateau du Coscione is not an exception.

Melting snow makes the pozzines and streams swell up with rushing water, nourishing the spongy lawns. Wildflowers explode with colours while the local fauna wakes up to new season’s activity.

In this period, the Corsican sun is particularly strong requiring adequate protection of the exposed skin and the head. Hikers love springtime Coscione excursions and by June, GR20 backpackers also start to show up on the trail.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

• As pozzines form an extremely delicate ecosystem it is crucial to follow the reserve’s rules aimed at preserving its natural beauty and biodiversity.
• When exploring Coscione, stay on marked trails to help minimise human impact on this sensitive environment.
• Make sure you take all your rubbish with you.
• Always check weather forecasts before planning your trip to Coscione. Avoid visiting the plateau during rain, in stormy and windy conditions.
• Protect yourself from the strong Corsican sun with proper headwear, sunglasses and clothing. Use creams with SPF filters on exposed skin.
• Make sure you have enough water and food to fuel your adventure.
• Comfortable hiking shoes are indispensable on the Coscione trails.
• Carry a windbreak layer with you for both your torso and your ears if you expect breezy weather.
• A map or a GPS watch are great companions for your mountain adventure.

WHERE TO STAY

• Hotel Sole e Monti (€) – Quenza
• Hotel Le Tourisme (€) – Zonza
• Hotel Clair de Lune (€) – Zonza
• Hotel Restaurant de la Poste (€) – Aullène

OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

• Pont de Camera waterfall in Zicavo
• The scenic Bavella drive between Porto Vecchio and Solenzara
• Trou de la Bombe hike in the mountains of Bavella
• Hike to the Piscia di Gallu waterfall near Foret Ospedale
• Family-friendly canyoning in Bavalla
• Archeologic sites of Cuccuruzzu and Capula
• Natural swimming pools of Cavu
• Local cheese and charcuterie

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