The Church St-Jean-Baptiste with the legendary 45 m high bell tower in La Porta is widely regarded as a pinnacle of Corsica’s Baroque architecture.
Situated in Castagniccia, an enchanting region steeped in ancient traditions of true artisan craftsmanship, it bore witness to the area’s vital role in the nation’s turbulent history.
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THE REGION OF CASTAGNICCIA
Castagniccia, the birthplace of the celebrated Corsican patriot Pasquale Paoli, is a beautiful mountainous region of eastern Corsica with an average altitude of 1000 m covered with abundant chestnut forests.
Although now sparsely populated, Castagniccia was once an important trading centre becoming the richest and the most densely inhabited area of the island at the apogee of its prosperity during the Genoese rule.
The highest mountain of Castagniccia Monte San Petrone (1767m) dominates fascinating landscapes of green valleys and wooded hills where stone-roofed villages, Roman chapels and elegant convents cling to rocky ridges affording superb panoramic views. Corsica’s longest river, the Golo, carves a picturesque border of the region from its north and west side while the rugged Bozio encloses the southern edge.
With a rich cultural heritage and ancestral traditions, Castagniccia continues successful farming of its trademark produce- chestnuts, ‘the gold of Corsican mountains’, and famous Cervione hazelnuts devoid of chemical treatment and fertilizers. The majestic mountains of Castagniccia are also home to natural sparkling mineral water Orezza known since the Antiquity for its exceptional qualities and delicate flavour.
THE VILLAGE OF LA PORTA
La Porta, the largest village in Castagniccia served as a gateway (porta) to the pieve of Ampugnani and the rest of the region. Nestled in the shadow of Monte San Petrone among exuberant chestnut groves frequented by the free-range Corsican pig and cattle it epitomizes the Corsican soul.
In season, La Porta remains a lively hamlet popular among hikers and nature lovers showcasing the extraordinary orange-hued beauty of its sublime location during the magical, serene autumn months.
You may access the village via D205 and D515 roads, however, be prepared for endless twists and turns ahead in the rugged mountainous terrain of the area.
EGLISE ST-JEAN-BAPTISTE
Considered Corsica’s finest Baroque church Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste in La Porta manifests great aesthetic beauty and period splendour expressed in masterly religious architecture.
The construction of the church started in 1644 under the supervision of Domenico Baina and was completed in 1707. In 1720 the same Milanese architect began building the adjacent bell tower which was erected up to the fourth level. Following the artist’s death, the final fifth floor covered with a small hexagonal dome was going to be completed under the constructor from Quercitello.
Rococo-style façade of the sanctuary reveals a more restrained, harmonious appearance with elegant columns decorating the entrance. The inside of the church, however, exhibits Baroque opulence with highly ornate, elaborate detail and fine furnishings. The interior comprises a central nave and six side chapels sheltering precious works of art such as the 18th century wooden Christ, the frescoes of Baina, or outstanding paintings- a depiction of the beheading of St John the Baptist on the right and The Martyrdom of Sainte Elaulie by Detouche on the left side. The spectacular church organ built by Benedetto Marraci in 1780 comes from a nearby convent of Saint Antoine de Casabianca.
In 1975 the famous 18th-century building dominating the village of La Porta was classified as a Historic Monument.
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