Enjoy an unforgettable trip around Corsica’s beautiful northernmost peninsula Cap Corse. Exposed to windswept views of untamed landscapes dotted with picturesque fishing villages and wild, remote beaches, the narrow D80 road carved into the rock face will grant you a truly exhilarating experience.
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CAP CORSE
The Cap Corse peninsula is located at the north-east end of the island with Bastia, Corsica’s second-largest town, and Saint Florent on each side of its base. The entire cap is 40 km long and up to 15 km wide while its centre is lined by the Serra mountain range peaking at Cima di e Folicce (1322m).
Isolated from the rest of the island until the 19th century when under Napoleon III the corniche road was built, the cape has preserved its unique identity with a traditional art de vivre and the extraordinary beauty of virtually unspoilt landscapes.
The gently sloping hilly east coast is washed by clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Small fishing ports set by idyllic coves afford a splendid panorama over two Italian islands- Elba and Capraia. On a clear day, a faint silhouette of the Tuscan mainland may also be seen.
Numerous Romanesque chapels, convents and churches bear witness to the island’s Christian heritage while glorious vineyards shaping the landscape testify to an ancient tradition of making exuberant wine true to its origin.
The west coast of the peninsula enjoys a distinctively different character. The scenery becomes wilder with sheer cliffs plunging into crashing waves of the Mediterranean. Fragrant maquis peppered with wildflowers, green oak groves and scented cistus and myrtle shrubs battered by strong ever-present winds reveal dramatic rock formations, home to a third of Corsica’s famous Genoese towers.
Photogenic villages clinging to the hillside are defined by a unique architectural charm with Maisons Americaines built in neoclassical Tuscan style. The sublime scenery becomes even more dramatic at sunset when evocative views encompassing the Gulf of Saint Florent radiate soft orange and yellow hues.
HISTORY OF THE CAP CORSE REGION
- In antiquity, the region was settled by several civilizations including the Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans who began the cultivation of olives and wines.
- In the 3rd century AD Christianity was introduced to Cap Corse with a noteworthy influence of the Franciscan mission.
- With the arrival of the da Massa lords from Pisa in the 10th century, the cape gained prominence.
- In 1284 Genoa defeated the Pisan fleet at Meloria and took control of the island. As a result, local feudal lords gained power becoming allies of the victorious rulers.
- Until the French hegemony of the island in the late 18th century, the peninsula was controlled by two local noble families- the da Mare in the north and the da Gentile clan in the south. During the Genoese rule, Cap Corse prospered economically developing trade with Tuscan and French ports. However, widespread pirate raids troubling the region led to the construction of a chain of famous Genoese watchtowers (torri).
- With the rapid growth of population numbers and a subsequent shortage in agricultural land, at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, thousands of Capicursini emigrated to the south and Central America. With large colonial fortunes made in gold mining or planting coffee, tobacco, and sugar, on their return, the Maisons d’Américans were constructed. The Palazzi, decorated with columns and arcades, surrounded by luxuriant gardens with palm trees or cedars may still be admired in Pino, Morsiglia, Sisco, Luri, or San Martino di Lota.
- Nowadays, Cap Corse relies mainly on tourism as its source of income. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the island, it retains its peaceful, solitary character.
CAP CORSE – SCENIC DRIVE
The Cap Corse road is Corsica’s signature scenic drive recognized worldwide for an incredibly diverse range of attractions. It follows the coastline along the peninsula offering sublime views of remote, natural landscapes and places of historic interest.
There are numerous parking spaces provided along the way allowing you to take photos and experience the magically wild environment. Touring the cap anti-clockwise starting from Bastia grants you the most spectacular panoramas bathed in the rays of the rising sun on the east side of the peninsula and illuminated by golden hues of sunset on the west.
The road itself is not for the faint of heart. Windy and narrow it twists for 120 km trailing the rugged coast with steep parts and sheer drop-offs becoming more recurrent along the west section of your drive.
In busy summer months, the congested with traffic D80 may be challenging and tricky to navigate for inexperienced drivers- make sure to drive with care and focus.
The iconic ride makes for an excellent day trip although you may feel tired at the end of your adventure. Sharing the driving and taking frequent breaks to enjoy the attractions will allow you to recoup your strength and savour the thrilling journey.
If you choose to spend several days in Cap Corse the best places to set up your base are Macinaggio, Barcaggio or Centuri-Port. Reservations should be made well in advance as accommodation options on the somewhat isolated peninsula are few and far between.
CAP CORSE – EAST COAST
LAVASINA
Lavasina is a pretty little village situated on the coastal D80 road 5 km north from Bastia. The hamlet is renowned for the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lavasina, often nicknamed ‘the Lourdes of Corsica’ due to numerous miracles reported since the first one in 1675 when a nun from Bonifacio was healed of her life-long paralyses. The miracle took place in front of a painting of the Virgin and Child offered as a settlement for the debt and displayed in a small chapel belonging to the Danese family.
Within two years the chapel was replaced with a new sanctuary and on 8 September 1677, the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin was celebrated for the first time. In 1859 the Franciscans became the guardians of the shrine and a convent was raised next to the Notre Dame des Graces church. To this day the shrine attracts many pilgrims on the Marian feast day celebrated on 8 September each year.
ERBALUNGA
Located 10 km north from Bastia the charming fishing port of Erbalunga was once the principal harbour of Cap Corse and a leading trading centre for the island selling olive oil and wine. Between the 11th-16th century, it was a historic seat of the ruling da Gentile family whose beautiful Palazzo may be admired to this day at Place de Gaulle. Considered one of the most beautiful villages of the Mediterranean, Erbalunga boasts a cosy marina with charismatic houses cramped around a lovely cove and a partly ruined Genoese watchtower protecting the promontory.
Atmospheric narrow lanes of the village centre are reserved for pedestrian-only use offering numerous restaurants, bars and boutiques. In summer, the peaceful marina comes alive with diverse outdoor concerts and art exhibitions while in spring it hoasts a famous Good Friday procession called Cerca.
SISCO
The valley of Sisco comprises of numerous hamlets occupying the hillside north of Erbalunga with Marine de Sisco located by a large sandy and stone beach. The area is home to an abundance of various historic and religious monuments dating back to the Roman, Pisan and Baroque times. A lovely 11th-century Chapel of San Michele perched high up on a remote rocky outcrop overlooks the valley and the sea. To get there follow the D32 road inland for 7 km. The Couvent de Santa Catalina situated above the coastal road is another jewel of the island’s medieval heritage. Built in the 12th century the monastery became an important place of pilgrimage with its church redesigned to accommodate large crowds.
PIETRACORBARA
The small seaside resort of Pietracorbara boasts a spacious sandy beach sheltering a charming marina. With its clear turquoise water complemented by an arresting natural spectacle of wilderness, the cove is a perfect place to stop, unwind and relax before setting off to explore the northern tip of Cap Corse.
SANTA SEVERA
Santa Severa, a small seaside village located further along the road is a must-stop for wine enthusiasts. A much-loved sweet dessert wine Muscat de Cap Corse produced by Domaine Pieretti has gained world-class acclaim for its finesse and freshness. The winery located by the sea at the edge of the village is open to the public from April to October while the glorious vineyards grow on schist and clay soils of hillsides around the village.
ENJOY 4×4 EXCURSIONS FROM BASTIA
- Day tour to Cap Corse and Saleccia Beach – a 9-hour long adventure aboard an off-road vehicle to experience some of Corsica’s most beautiful landscapes. You will discover the authentic perched villages of Cap Corse, Desert des Agriates, and the beach of Saleccia- one of the island’s most famous sandy coves. A 2-hour swimming break will help you to refresh after the adventurous drive. 4×4 rides are not suitable for pregnant women. Reservations may be made online.
- Off-road excursion to the Agriates and Ghignu Beach– a day trip to Desert des Agriates, Corsica’s renowned natural site rich with endemic species of flora and fauna. During a 4-hour break at Ghignu, a sublime isolated beach, you can relax in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. The tour is limited to 6 participants. You may book your tickets online.
CAP CORSE – THE NORTH
MACINAGGIO
Macinaggio, the largest port in Cap Corse is a lively little town located within the Natural Reserve site, a haven for hikers, nature lovers and water sports enthusiasts. A thriving port in the Roman times Macinaggio continued to prosper throughout the Genoese rule exporting olive oil and wine to Italy. Over the course of its history, the port saw the arrival of many prominent figures such as Pasquale Paoli, Napoleon Bonaparte, or Empress Eugenie who opened a new route from Macinaggio to Rogliano.
Today this charming resort offers a wide range of tourist activities from fishing, sailing, hiking to whale or seabird watching. The village has numerous sandy coves within walking distance while in the centre you may enjoy delicious seafood served by local restaurants, stock up on supplies in a mini-market or fill up at one of the cape’s few petrol stations. Wine lovers will appreciate exquisite Clos Nicrosi wines planted near the village of Rogliano above the port whilst those who would rather experience the Cap Corse marine park may join a boat ride organised by San Paulu Sea Tours departing from the harbour.
SITE NATUREL DE LA CAPANDULA
Macinaggio borders with a protected area of beautiful natural landscapes called Site Naturel de la Capandula. The nature reserve is home to sandy dunes, dreamy beaches and low dense vegetation, a suitable habitat for rare flora and fauna species. The windswept Capandula stretching up north to the village of Barcaggio is closed to motor vehicle traffic to ensure the peace and quiet of wildlife.
The first of sublime clear-water beaches along the coastal path is called Baie de Tamarone, it also makes for the starting point of Sentier du Douanier, a popular walk winding across the pristine coast all the way to Centuri-Port. The following beaches include- Plage des Iles benefiting from the view of wild islets called Iles Finocchiarola, Rade de Santa Maria with its medieval Chapel and a dramatically positioned Genoese watchtower, and finally two gloriously turquoise-water coves- Cala Genoese and Cala Francese.
BARCAGGIO
Barcaggio is a delightful little port located at the northernmost tip of Cap Corse overlooking the barren Ile de la Giraglia crowned with a 16th-century Genoese tower and a lonely lighthouse. To get to the village follow the D253 road northwards from Ersa. Barcaggio’s spectacular wild sandy beach backed by white dunes curves gently for 1 km culminating with an imposing watchtower. A cluster of attractive houses concentrated around the marina with a handful of excellent restaurants and a relaxing, convivial atmosphere make this idyllic village a perfect family destination.
TOLLARE
The austere architecture of grey waterfront houses surrounding a tiny port and a pebbly beach give Tollare a strikingly different feel to its lively neighbour Barcaggio. Devoid of buzzing bars and restaurants it has managed to retain an authentic eerie ambience of a windswept solitary town at the edge of the world. You can get to Tollare following the D153 road.
MOULIN MATTEI
Moulin Mattei is located at the Col de Serra (365m) on the coastal D80 road at the north-western tip of Cap Corse. Exposed to stupendous panoramas across the rugged west coast it makes for a beautiful viewing point when taking the road trip around the cape. An easy walk up the hill takes around 15 min, however, it is a very windy spot all year round. The restored mill is the only one surviving out of the 13 that were in operation in the mid-19th century. Previously restored by Louis Napoleon Mattei, an inventor of the Cap Corse aperitif, it was later bought and renovated by Conservatoire du Littoral.
CENTURI-PORT
Centuri-Port, an attractive little fishing village is one of the most popular destinations of Cap Corse. With pastel-coloured cottages encircling a lovely harbour, home to a small fleet of fishing boats, Centuri-Port oozes authentic Mediterranean charm. Famous for its precious speciality- delicious lobsters, the port offers a wide array of restaurants where you may sample mouth-watering freshly caught seafood but also traditional meat dishes or local pizzas. In summer, Centuri-Port remains a pedestrian-only zone with a large car park provided at the southern exit of the town near a small pebbly beach. To get there take the narrow D35 road winding westwards for 4 km from the main D80 at Camera.
CAP CORSE – WEST COAST
MORSIGLIA
To admire characteristic, beautifully decorated 19th-century aristocratic houses and Palazzi, visit Morsiglia, an authentic village located between Centuri and Pino 600 m above the sea on the west side of the peninsula. Immersed in divine wild scenery the village also boasts three Genoese period square watchtowers bearing witness to the now depopulated town’s historical heritage. Arrive via a twisting D35 road off the main coastal D80.
PINO – TOUR DE SENEQUE
Despite the increasingly wilder and more dramatic landscapes of the west side coast, the village of Pino exudes seductive old-world Mediterranean charm. Tall palm trees dotting the hillside soar above elegant Palazzi and ornamented tombs erected by Corsicans returning from Puerto Rico during the colonial period. One of the mausoleums visible from the D80 road holds the ashes of the daughter of Gustave Eiffel who married a Corsican diplomat. At the marina located just below the village, there is a Franciscan 15th-century convent awaiting a thorough restoration although beautiful frescos above the entrance may still be admired. The village offers numerous services including a petrol station, a restaurant and a small supermarket where you can purchase refreshments.
Above Pino, on the D180 road to Luri, a 30-min walk up the hill culminates with amazing views from the Tour de Sénèque, a place where the famous philosopher is said to have lived between 41-49 AD during his exile in Corsica.
CANARI
Canari, a lovely commune consisting of several hamlets, is perched high above some of the most dramatic scenery of the peninsula overlooking celebrated stretches of the coastal corniche road. Historic treasures of the village include Eglise Santa Maria Assunta, a Romanesque church from the 12th century, a Baroque Eglise St-Francois and a beautiful 17th-century bell tower occupying a remarkable viewing point that offers an amazing panorama of the Gulf of Saint Florent. The bell tower square is also a starting point for hiking trails including a walk-up to Cima di e Folicce (1324 m), the cape’s highest peak. The road south of Canari passes next to a former amianthus mine that once boosted the economy of the region. The factory closed its doors in June 1965 due to the hazardous effects of asbestos on human health and the environment.
MARINE D’ALBO
Wild waves crashing against a windswept pebble beach nestled in a valley of the rugged Serra mountains- scenic views of Marine d’Albo form an archetypal landscape of the Cap Corse peninsula. Grey, 300 m long beach protected by a 16th-century watchtower was once part of a small fishing port. Today its enchanting desolate beauty draws surfers and outdoor enthusiasts looking to escape the crowds.
NONZA
Nonza, an enchanting perched village located 20 km north of Saint Florent on the west side of Cap Corse is considered one of the most photogenic Corsican destinations. Set high up on a vertical cliff it overlooks an immense 1.4 km long beach of grey and green pebbles lapped by frothy waves of deep blue Mediterranean waters.
In the past Nonza was a stronghold of the da Gentile family, the ruins of the 11th-century castle still crown the exposed rocky ridge. In the village’s main lively square, you may admire a 16th-century orange-painted church of Ste-Julie devoted to the saint martyred for refusing to partake in pagan celebrations. Rocky steps off the main road at the north end of the village lead to Fontaine de Ste-Julie, a miraculous source that is thought to have sprung at the moment of martyrdom. Today a chapel built by the spring welcomes pilgrims throughout the year. Further 150 steps down the path eventually descend to the black beach, which may also be reached from its northern end by car.
Narrow stairs in the shaded main square going up between attractive cottages lead to the 18th-century Paoline watchtower from where through Trou de Diable you may enjoy sublime lunar views of the beach. A superb La Sassa restaurant located below the tower platform offers refreshing cocktails to accompany first-rate golden-coloured sunset panoramas of truly amazing scenery.
ENJOY 4×4 EXCURSIONS FROM BASTIA
- Day tour to Cap Corse and Saleccia Beach – a 9-hour long adventure aboard an off-road vehicle to experience some of Corsica’s most beautiful landscapes. You will discover the authentic perched villages of Cap Corse, Desert des Agriates, and the beach of Saleccia- one of the island’s most famous sandy coves. A 2-hour swimming break will help you to refresh after the adventurous drive. 4×4 rides are not suitable for pregnant women. Reservations may be made online.
- Off-road excursion to the Agriates and Ghignu Beach– a day trip to Desert des Agriates, Corsica’s renowned natural site rich with endemic species of flora and fauna. During a 4-hour break at Ghignu, a sublime isolated beach, you can relax in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. The tour is limited to 6 participants. You may book your tickets online.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
- Plan your journey thoughtfully and decide beforehand which places of interest you might want to visit along the way. Remember that each detour adds supplementary distance to your 120 km long drive.
- If you do not fancy spending a whole day in the car touring the peninsula you may take an alternative route and cut across the cape at Santa Severa arriving eventually on the west side via Luri and Tour de Sénèque.
- If you are prone to vertigo you may consider undertaking the journey clockwise starting in Saint Florent. This way you will always stay on the inside lane of the road by the rock face.
- Set off in the morning as driving the twisting narrow road may be taxing. Embarking early will grant you precious time to rest and enjoy the attractions.
- The coastal D80 road may get clogged with traffic at its narrow stretches in high season. Touring Cap Corse outside the tourist peak period makes for a more relaxing experience.
- Cap Corse is exposed to strong winds, the prevailing being the westerly or south-westerly Libeccio present all year round. Even in sunny weather conditions bring adequate clothing to protect yourself from the elements.
- In recent years the Corniche road was gradually being resurfaced now providing good driving conditions.
- Note that there are few petrol stations on the peninsula. Fill up ahead of your journey to avoid complications.
- Cap Corse, next to Patrimonio, is renowned for its superb well-crafted wines. Some of the well-known producers include Domaine Pieretti in Santa Severa, Clos Nicrosi in Rogliano, Domaine de Gioielli in Macinaggio, Casa Angeli in Rogliano and Domaine Pietri in Morsiglia.
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