CALANCHES DE PIANA- EXPLORE CORSICA’S COASTAL PARADISE

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Discover the world-famous Calanches de Piana, an awe-inspiring landscape of red granite rock formations eroded into fascinating shapes. Spiky outcrops rising 300 m above the sea level flanked by steep jagged cliffs dropping into the water are Corsica’s must-see natural wonder inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Whether you choose to explore the Calanques on foot, by car or decide to admire their intoxicating rugged beauty from the boat, you are guaranteed an unforgettable experience. Follow this guide to plan your adventure in one of the Mediterranean’s most scenic spots.

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GOLFE DE PORTO

Located in north-western Corsica the unique geological rock sculptures benefit from a privileged setting amongst the iconic landscapes of the Golfe de Porto.

The charming town of Porto famous for its spectacular sunsets lighting up the jagged coast’s red cliffs is the epicentre of the gulf’s tourist activity. Another popular choice among visitors who wish to set up base while exploring the west coast’s scenic attractions is Piana, a charming village perched 438 m above sea level.

The northern part of the bay is famous for the Scandola Nature Reserve where dramatic rock formations emerge from crystal-clear waters forming rare enclaves that host a diversity of endemic flora and fauna species. Set against the oasis of crimson cliffs is Girolata, a lovely fishing village only accessible on foot or by boat.

The southern edge of the gulf overlooked by the majestic mountain of Capo d’Orto offers an opportunity to enjoy a refreshing dip into turquoise water at one of the area’s most attractive beaches- Anse de Ficaghiola and Plage d’Arone, while the neighbouring Capu Rossu summit presents an unforgettable 360- degree panorama across the bay.

With such a diverse range of fascinating landscapes of unrivalled natural beauty the Gulf of Porto, Corsica’s top tourist destination remains one of the most evocative areas of the Mediterranean.

CALANCHES DE PIANA IN LITERATURE

At nightfall, I crossed the Calanques de Piana. Stunned, I stopped in front of these astonishing pink granite rocks, four hundred meters high, strange, tortured, curved, eaten away by time, bloody under the last fires of sunset and taking on such forms as fairy tale characters, petrified by some supernatural power. And then I saw two gigantic monks bolt upright; a sitting bishop, cook in hand, mitre on head; of prodigious figures, a lion crouched  at the edge of the road, a woman nursing her child and a head of an immense devil horned grimacing, guardian probably of this crowd imprisoned in stone bodies. After the Niolo which, without doubt, no-one will admire the stark and barren loneliness, the Calanques the Piana are one of the wonders of Corsica; arguably, I think one of the wonders of the world.

– Guy de Maupassant, The Monastery of Corbara 1880

VISITING THE CALANCHES BY CAR

To explore the Calanches by car follow the D81 corniche road between Piana and Porto meandering for 12 km through jagged cliffs plunging to the turquoise-blue Mediterranean waters.

There are numerous pullover bays along the scenic stretch where you may stop to take in the amazing scenery. The best time to admire this wild eroded terrain is at sunset when the rock formations take on a vivid shade of red casting deep shadows over the otherworldly landscapes.

In busy summer months, the road can get congested as parts of it are so narrow that cars may just pass by. By pulling up to the side of the lane you can let other drivers overtake.

At the heart of this rocky universe, you may stop and take a break at a small café offering breathtaking sea views from its panoramic terrace.

VISITING THE CALANCHES BY BOAT

Many visitors find that a boat tour of the mesmerizing world of porphyry combined with an exploration of the untamed scenery of Scandola is the highlight of their trip to Corsica. Isolated rocky inlets, giant red cliffs disappearing into crystal-clear waters, and narrow sparkly caves experienced during the magic sunset hours indulge all senses providing a truly thrilling adventure.

DEPARTURE PORTS

Several companies offer scenic tours with boats departing from various locations- Ajaccio, Sagone, Cargèse, Porto, or Calvi at different times of the day. Tickets for daily excursions may be purchased in advance from GetYourGuide or Viator, directly with the operator, or at numerous stalls displaying the operators’ services in the marina of Porto, or other harbours.

WHEN TO SET OUT?

Pink porphyry rocks sculpted by the elements are best viewed during late afternoon summer tours when the setting sun’s golden rays intensify the shadows of bizarre shapes. Many companies offer stops for a refreshing dip during the ride or halt for a picnic while skilled captains navigating the boats are eager to share their extensive knowledge of the region.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Nature lovers will appreciate this hotspot for biodiversity where abundant flora and fauna species inhabit the protected area. Heaven for numerous bird species, the Calanches are home to golden eagles, peregrine falcons, ospreys, and seagulls. The surrounding waters are teeming with rich marine life, and if lucky, you may be awarded a serene view of dolphins playing against the western horizon.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BOAT?

When you plan your sea adventure consider the duration of the activity, optional attractions included in the tour, but also the type of the boat, a factor that is often overlooked yet greatly impacting your overall experience.

SEMI-RIGID BOATS

Smaller semi-rigid boats with a capacity of up to 12 people guarantee a very authentic, close encounter with nature. You will glide over the waves in the proximity of the cliffs, enter narrow coves, and even spot the flamboyant Corsican fish directly from the vessel. However, due to the boat’s small size, there are minimal, or no covered areas leaving passengers exposed to the sun (proper sun protection in this case is essential). Semi-rigids also offer a more bumpy ride making them unsuitable for pregnant women or people with back problems.

SMALL CRUISER BOATS

Bigger boats, on the other hand, lack in manoeuvrability but make it up in improved stability and comfort. Often providing protected-from-the-sun covered areas, and sometimes amenities such as toillettes and a bar, they suit senior visitors and families with small children. The drawback is that with a larger number of people participating in the tour, your experience may be less intimate.

PRACTICAL TIPS

• Boat excursions, particularly aboard fast semi-rigid vessels are not recommended for pregnant women and people with back problems.
• Excursion schedules are subject to change depending on the season and weather. Stormy or windy conditions prevent departures for security reasons. Visitors are instead offered refunds for cancellations or postponements.
• On cooler days in spring or autumn, participants are advised to carry additional layers of clothing as it is always colder on the sea than on land.
• If you plan to swim, bring your bathing suit and a towel. A snorkeling mask is often provided by the tour organiser but check it in the conditions when preparing for your trip.
• Make sure that you use effective sun protection, bring your sunglasses and a hat.
• A bottle of water and some snacks will help you stay hydrated and energised.
• Even if you don’t plan to enjoy a dip in the sea, carrying a small towel is a good idea as there is always some water spray from the speeding boat.

VISITING CALANCHES DE PIANA ON FOOT

Calanques’ rare beauty may be fully appreciated during one of the popular walks into the heart of the rocky chaos. Remember to bring adapted footwear as the Corsican trails are stony and uneven.

CHATEAU FORT HIKE

A well-known 1-hour long trail to the Chateau Fort starts next to a famous rock Tete de Chien 700 m north of the Roches Bleues café. There is a small signposted car park where you may leave your vehicle, although spaces may be hard to find in the peak season.

The path starts in a shaded forest with giant boulders scattered around, winding through rocky terrain before ending at a plateau that offers stupendous views across the gulf.

The walk is fairly easy although the twisty trail passes through steeper, more slippery stretches where comfortable hiking footwear is essential. In order to avoid hot midday hours set off early in the morning or later in the afternoon. As there are no water sources provided along the way be sure to carry your own supply.

HIKE FROM ROCHES BLUES CAFE

More enthusiastic hikers may begin the walk at the Roches Bleues café where on the opposite side of the road a path winds up the hill and over the pass to re-join the D 81 route. As there are two trails running up from the starting place, make sure you pick the one on the left close to the stream. In just over an hour of fairly strenuous hiking you will arrive at a spot positioned around 200 m east of the Tete de Chien rock where the trail to Chateau Fort begins.

SENTIER DES MULETIERS

You may also enjoy a lovely 1-hour long Sentier des Muletiers starting 500 m south from the café next to the statue of Madonna. The start of the trail is fairly steep and the path meanders for 1.5 km through the rocky terrain before joining the D 81 further south. Return following the same route.

CAPO ROSSO HIKE

One of the most spectacular hikes in the area leads to the summit of the iconic Capo Rosso. Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, this 331-meter pyramid-like rock dominates the area affording awe-inspiring views of Porto Bay. The 8-kilometre-long round trip starts west of Piana on the D824 road, winding through the fragrant Corsican maquis before ascending steeply on the last rocky section.

Atop Capo Rosso is Tour de Turghiu, a beautiful Genoese watchtower exposed to the captivating seascape. Built in 1608, it was part of the defence system protecting the island against recurrent pirates’ raids.

Although the hike is easy, apart from its final steep stretch, it is exposed to the strong Mediterranean sun and the wind. Good shoes, a hat, sunglasses and plenty of water will help you conquer this emblematic rock.

BEST PLACES TO STAY NEAR THE CALANCHES

PORTO

Nestled in the heart of Porto Bay, the arresting town of Porto is a great base for exploring the area’s rugged coast. Surrounded by the majestic red cliffs, with a small beach, an imposing Genoese watchtower, and a pretty harbour, it charms adventurers and nature enthusiasts, giving access to Corsica’s key natural landmarks. Above the town towers a rocky spike of Capo d’Orto encompassing exhilarating views of the entire gulf. The town gets crowded in the highest season, but if you arrive outside July and August, Porto’s arresting setting will transport you to a fairy-tale-like natural oasis on the world’s edge.

WHERE TO STAY

• Capo d’Orto Hotel (€€)
• Les Flots Bleus (€)
• Hotel Bella Vista (€)

PIANA

Piana is a must-see destination for anyone visiting Corsica’s northwestern coast. Perched over 400 meters above the sea, it boasts some of the best views in the area. Enclosed by the dramatic scenery, with charming narrow alleys, cosy restaurants and cafes, it is often ranked among the most beautiful villages in France. Below the rocky outcrop supporting the village is Anse de Ficaghjola, a stunning cove accessible via a narrow windy road descending 350 kilometres to the beach. If dizzying drives are not your thing, head to Plage de Arone, 12 kilometres southwest of Piana where a vast sandy bay seduces with perfectly transparent waters.

WHERE TO STAY

• Hotel Capo Rosso (€€)
• Hotel Scandola (€€)

CARGESE

Cargèse is a postcard-perfect village further south of Piana, known for its unique amalgam of Greek and Corsican cultures. Established in 1676 by Greek exiles fleeing Ottoman rule, it boasts two beautiful churches, Orthodox and Catholic, facing each other, embodying the area’s dual heritage. The village evokes pretty Greek towns with its whitewashed houses covered by blooming flowers, exposed to stunning coastal views. Cargèse is also home to stunning beaches such as Plage de Péro, Chiuni and Menasina, where visitors may enjoy fun-filled days practising watersports, while the village’s small marina is a departure point for boat trips to Scandola and the Calanches.

WHERE TO STAY

• Villa Flaka Boutique Hotel (€€€)
• Résidence Roc E Mare (€)
• Domaine de Saint Pierre (€)
• Residenza L’Alivetu (€)
• Hotel et Résidence Ta Kladia – Omigna (€)

CALVI

Calvi, considered by many as the most pretty town in Corsica, is located around 80 kilometres north of the Calanches, but in its vibrant port, you may hop on a boat to enjoy a scenic tour of the dramatic west coast including Scandola Nature Reserve. Other attractions of this charming resort include a striking 13th-century Genoese citadel perched on a rocky headland, a long sandy beach, stretching for kilometres in a perfect semi-circle, and a captivating old town with atmospheric alleyways lined by quaint boutiques and restaurants. Day trips from Calvi are fabulous, ranging from exciting day hikes, excursions to emerald rivers in fragrant old forests to sightseeing in the glorious Balagne region dotted with authentic Corsican villages.

WHERE TO STAY

• La Villa Calvi (€€€)
• Hotel Corsica & Spa Serena (€€)
• Hotel le Saint Erasme (€)
• Best Western Hotel Casa Bianca (€)

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