HIKING TO THE ABANDONED VILLAGE OF FIUMINALE IN CASTAGNICCIA

by karola

Discover the mysteries and legends of Fiuminale, a charming Corsican ghost village nestled in the mountains of Castagniccia. Enjoying a remote location without road access, it may be reached via a beautiful trail following the Petrignani River through the island’s iconic Chestnut forests.

This family-friendly hike offers a unique wealth of sublime natural landscapes intertwined with a nostalgic journey into Corsica’s captivating history – a thoroughly rewarding experience for all lovers of the ‘Island of Beauty’.

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Fiuminale sits atop a rocky ridge accessible via an old mule track that runs along the river.
Fiuminale sits atop a rocky ridge accessible via an old mule track that runs along the river.

THE VILLAGE OF FIUMINALE

Fiuminale is an abandoned village located in the heights of Castagniccia at an altitude of 550 m. With no access road leading to the remote hamlet, it can only be reached on foot, on the back of a donkey or horseback. Surrounded by majestic chestnut forests with exceptional views reaching the Tyrrhenian Sea, Fiuminale bears witness to traditional Corsican culture and ancestral ways of life.

The origins of the village go back in time to the period of barbarian invasions, raids, and wars when local populations moved deeper into the mountains to protect their lives and livelihoods.

The hamlet of Fiuminale was erected atop a rocky ridge accessible via an old mule track running along the stream. The villagers lived off the land preoccupying themselves with mixed farming and animal rearing, with donkeys widely used for transportation. The small community comprised up to 100 permanent residents.

In the 50s, Fiuminale started falling into decline following the fate of numerous Corsican mountain villages. Gradually, people began to move out with the last inhabitant, Zia Devota, leaving the hamlet in 1981.

Today, you may stroll among the deserted stone buildings, some of which partly rehabilitated by the owners, reflecting on the bygone times.  A small Chapel of Saint Joseph, restored in 2012 by the San Ghjiseppu di Fiuminale Association, dominates the charming hamlet. Samper Fidati, letters carved on the front door mean ‘always faithful’. On 1st May each year, after a procession to the village, a Holy Mass is celebrated, followed by a convivial meal held in memory of the ancestral history of Fiuminale.

A charming stone bridge called Pont de L'Enfer is a starting point of the hike to Fiuminale.
A charming stone bridge called Pont de L’Enfer is a starting point of the hike to Fiuminale.

THE REGION OF CASTAGNICCIA

Castagniccia is a fascinating region located south of Bastia in the northeast part of the island. Endless hills covered with sumptuous chestnut growth cultivated first by the Genoese used to be the wealthiest part of Corsica. Once densely inhabited, the area’s handsome schist villages gracing rocky ridges concentrated regional trade in wood crafting and chestnut flower. During the Corsican Revolution, thriving autochthonous communities fervently supported the patriotic efforts of the famous local hero from Morsaglia- Pasquale Paoli.

Although now depopulated, the mountainous hamlets to this day harbour rich cultural and religious heritage with the opulent church in La Porta standing out as the pearl of baroque art.

Located off the beaten track, this entrancing territory of Corsica offers a relaxing atmosphere, authentic sightseeing, and serene mountain trails even in high season.

River Petrignani is dotted with emerald water natural pools perfect for a cooling dip.
River Petrignani is dotted with emerald water natural pools perfect for a cooling dip.

HOW TO GET THERE

To access the starting point of the hike, take the D109-D209-D330 route off the main T10 in Santa-Lucia-di-Moriani. After 7 km of scenic twists and turns you will arrive at Pont de l’Enfer, a charming bridge rising above the Petrignani River at the entrance of the Velone Orneto town. Despite its sinister name (‘the Bridge of Hell’) linked to the local legends, it is a wonderful shaded place adorned with freshwater pools perfect for refreshing dips.

Park your vehicle in the bay along the road.

Most of the track to Fiuminale runs in the shade of beautiful chestnut trees carpeting the valley.
Most of the track to Fiuminale runs in the shade of beautiful chestnut trees carpeting the valley.

THE TRAIL TO FIUMINALE SOTTANO

The round trip to the deserted village is around 5.5 km long and takes up to 2h30min without breaks. Apart from its final steep part, the trail itself poses no real difficulties making it a perfect family adventure.

The hike begins at the bridge where you may also enjoy a cooling swim on the way back. Marked with orange paint, the path follows the stream crossing it on several occasions. As the water in these places is very shallow, you need not worry about getting your feet wet.

Most of the track runs in the shade of a beautiful chestnut forest with shimmering stream water reflecting the surrounding scenery. The first half of the trail gently climbs up the wooded hills with the final section rising fairly sharp towards the village. At the intersection marking the routes for San Giovanni and Fiuminale, follow the latter.

Having conquered the final slope, enter the village via the gate making sure to properly shut it behind you.

You may follow the trail for another 15 minutes via the upper gate to Fiuminale Soprano located above the lower hamlet.

To get back to the Pont de L’Enfer bridge, trace the same path down.

A small Chapel of Saint Joseph restored in 2012 dominates the deserted mountain hamlet.
A small Chapel of Saint Joseph, restored in 2012, dominates the deserted mountain hamlet.

DONKEY RIDES TO FIUMINALE

Families with small children may enjoy a half-a-day excursion to Fiuminale with donkeys. The round trip costs 42 € per person and the accompanying guide 25 €. If you choose to entertain your little ones for the whole day, you will have to spend 68 €.

Donkey Hire is located at the trailhead near Pont de L’Enfer.

Find other family-friendly attractions and activities in Corsica.

In high season, a friendly restaurant housed in one of the Fiuminale buildings offers light meals.
In high season, a friendly restaurant housed in one of the Fiuminale buildings offers light meals.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

  • The round trip is 5.39 km long. The ascent takes up to 1h30min while the descent may be accomplished in under 1h. The hike is easy, excluding the last section where the path climbs rather steeply up the hill.
  • Appropriate hiking footwear is necessary along the mountainous path. Hiking polls may be handy when traversing more challenging parts of the trail.
  • In summer, UV ray protection and a hat will keep you safe from excessive sun exposure.
  • Water and snacks are essential to fuel your efforts.
  • In high season, a friendly restaurant housed in one of the Fiuminale buildings offers light meals and beverages. Likewise, you may purchase refreshments at the beginning of your excursion near the bridge.
  • Autumn is a wonderful time to explore the mysteries of Fiuminale. Vivid colors of the surrounding vegetation paired with the humming of the river guarantee a revitalizing experience.
  • Always check the weather forecast before setting off on a hike. The weather in the mountains is unpredictable and may change rapidly. An additional layer of clothing will protect you from the unwelcome surprises.
  • In summer, make sure to bring your bathing suit. The valley is dotted with lovely swimming spots where you may rest your feet after the ascent.
  • Drive carefully on the region’s roads. Narrow and windy, they require low speeds and an unceasing concentration.

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