SARTENE- DISCOVERING THE SOUL OF CORSICA

by karola

Soak up the authentic Corsican spirit in the town of Sartene, a fascinating medieval stronghold steeped in history and tradition.

Notorious for a turbulent past saturated with stories of bloody vendettas, fierce banditry, and perpetual conflict the fortress has managed to retain its characteristic architectural style and a somber ambiance.

Strategically perched atop a granite outcrop dominating the pastoral Rizzanese Valley, between the mountains and the sea, Sartene continues to guard its mysteries staying faithful to its depiction chronicled by a French novelist Prosper Mérimée- the most Corsican of Corsican towns.

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Tall granite buildings of Sartene perched strategically atop a rocky outcrop.
Tall granite buildings of Sartene perched strategically atop a rocky outcrop.

LOCATION OF SARTENE

Sartene is situated in southwest Corsica on the main T40 road between Ajaccio and Bonifacio, 14 km from the seaside port of Propriano.

Set atop a rocky spur the granite fortress dominates a beautiful, sparsely populated region of awe-inspiring scenery.

Fertile green valleys producing world-class wines crossed by pristine rivers rushing towards clear waters of the Mediterranean, 30 km of unspoilt coastline with the Needles of Bavella rising off the Alta Rocca massif in the east- a tapestry of landscapes to fit all preferences.

This magnificent corner of the island is also famous for an astonishing wealth of ancestral heritage. Numerous prehistoric sites dotting the fruitful soils give testimony to ancient human activity in Corsica.

If you arrive in Corsica by air, the nearest airports are located in Figari and Ajaccio. The island may also be accessed by boat with the closest ferry port found in Propriano, the principal resort of the Gulf of Valinco.

The medieval fortress town dominates a beautiful region of scenic landscapes.
The medieval fortress town dominates a beautiful region of scenic landscapes.

HISTORY OF SARTENE

  • Numerous menhirs discovered within the Sartene commune point to a prehistoric human occupation of the region.
  • Raided by the Saracens in the 10th century the inhabitants of the territory gathered within the strategically positioned settlement.
  • In the 12th century, during the Pisan reign of Corsica, the region was ruled by the noble della Rocca family.
  • Oppressed by the Genoese, the Sgio (local feudal elites) continued to combat the foreign forces. Overpowered, Rinuccio della Rocca was finally defeated in 1510.
  • At the beginning of the 16th century, Sartene was established as a small Genoese administrative center.
  • In 1565 the town was attacked by the troops of Sampiero Corso, a Corsican patriot supported by Gasconian mercenaries, to be soon regained by Genoa.
  • Before long, in 1583, two-thirds of Sartene’s population was taken captive by the forces of Hassan Pasha, the king of Algiers, while the town got plundered.
  • At the end of the 17th century, the number of inhabitants reached 1200, the population continued to thrive and new buildings were erected.
  • During the period of wars for Corsican independence led by Pasquale Paoli (1728-69) Sartene remained unengaged before eventually accepting his authority in 1763.
  • At the beginning of the 19th century under the reign of Napoleon III, the flourishing noble families of Sartene (Sgio) partook in fierce political rivalry. Often bloody feuds and vendetta stories became an inspiration for a short story ‘Colomba’ by Prosper Mérimée.
  • The fortified town continued to prosper throughout the century. Important agrarian restructuring, the development of the wine trade and societal transformations remoulded Sartene into a leading centre of the southern region.
  • The inter-war period saw a rapid growth of socialist parties with a creation of the SFIO party section in 1926.
  • During the Second World War, the French Resistance strengthened by the members of the submarine Casabianca mission boosted its presence in Corsica, including Sartene. The island became the first French department to be liberated from the forces of the Third Reich in October 1943.

Narrow cobblestone streets of the old town retain the authentic Corsican spirit.
Narrow cobblestone streets of the old town retain the authentic Corsican spirit.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN SARTENE – TOP ATTRACTIONS

  • Enjoy a drink and watch the world go by at Place Porta (Place de la Libération), the town’s main square shaded by palm trees and lined with bars and cafes.
  • Visit Eglise Ste-Marie dominating the town square. Built in the 1760s it houses the cross and a heavy chain worn by the Penitent during the U Catenacciu procession on Good Friday.
  • Explore the old town in the Santa Anna district behind the Hotel de Ville. A magical maze of tall granite buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and shaded alleys linked by arcades and arches provides a glimpse into the past.
  • Discover the Echauguette– a 16th-century Genoese tower erected in the place of the town’s medieval lookout tower giving on to the beautiful Rizzanese Valley.
  • Take part in the celebrations of U Catenacciu– the most impressive Good Friday procession in Corsica. The rituals taking place throughout the day and into the night hours have been preserved by the generations of the Sartenians since the Middle Ages. A hooded, chained on the ankle Grand Pénitent carries a 30 kg wooden cross through the candlelit streets filled with ancient Corsican prayers.
  • Explore a fascinating collection of prehistoric artifacts and archaeological treasures excavated in historic sites of Corsica housed in the Musée de la Préhistoire Corse. The exhibits dating back to 6000-500 BC include daggers, vases, jewelry, iron tools, and even menhir statues.
  • Admire Couvent de San Damiano, a Franciscan convent restored by a brotherhood of Belgian monks where the Great Penitent prays the night before the U Catenacciu procession.

VISIT SARTENE FROM AJACCIO WITH A PRIVATE DRIVER

  • Cruise ship passengers and other visitors looking to enjoy their custom day itinerary around Ajaccio and the surrounding regions may hire a driver or even upgrade to include a private tour guide. Guests are welcome to choose their preferred time and place of departure. Private tours last for up to 8 hours and are also offered in English. Click here to learn more and make an early reservation.

The picturesque town of Campomoro boasts an idyllic golden-sand beach.
The picturesque town of Campomoro boasts an idyllic golden-sand beach.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO AROUND SARTENE – TOP ATTRACTIONS

  • Explore the archaeological treasures of Filitosa– a famous megalithic site inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Other prominent historic centers include Palaggiu with its 250 monoliths and Cauria boasting the Dolmen de Fontanaccia, the most beautiful burial chamber in Corsica.
  • Enjoy a coastal hike between Campomoro and Tizzano. The picturesque town of Belvédère-Campomoro is home to Corsica’s largest Genoese tower while Tizzano boasts pristine turquoise-water coves that remain relatively crowd-free even in high season.
  • Discover Roccapina, one of Corsica’s most beautiful beaches where crystal clear waters lap gently against the pristine white sand.
  • Taste the exquisite wines of Sartene. Made of traditional Corsican varieties such as Vermentino, Sciacarello, or Niellucio they immaculately express the hilly granite terroirs of the region. Most renowned estates of the appellation include Domaine Fiumicicoli, Domaine Saparale, Domaine San Micheli, Domaine Sant Armettu, Domaine Castellu di Baricci, Domaine Pero Longo, Domaine Mosconi, Clos Colonna.
  • Enjoy the ultimate aquatic adventure in the natural pools of the Bavella Canyon. Numerous providers offer canyoning tours of all levels of difficulty in the spellbinding landscapes of Alta Rocca. The scenic drive via the picturesque village of Zonza guarantees unforgettable views of Corsica’s celebrated Aiguilles de Bavella.
  • Visit Bonifacio, a medieval fortress town located atop glistening limestone cliffs. Stunning coastline scenery around this famed Corsican landmark may be best appreciated during a boat excursion offered by various operators in the marina.
  • Admire a beautiful 13th-century bridge Spin’a Cavallu on the Rizzanese River designed by the architect Maestro Maternato.

BOOK A BOAT TRIP

  • Boat trip to Piantarella, Roccapina, and Tizzano from the beach of Santa Giulia. Visit Corsica’s beautiful south coast during a 9-hour long scenic boat tour from Santa Giulia. Enjoy snorkeling in the transparent waters of Piantarella and Roccapina before stopping at the charming fishing port of Tizzano. Learn more about the cruise and book your tickets here.
  • Boat tour to the beaches of the Gulf of Valinco from Ajaccio or Porticcio. Discover the coves, white sand beaches, and turquoise waters of the Gulf of Valinco with this 9-hour boat tour departing from Ajaccio or Porticcio. You will enjoy swimming breaks in some of the most beautiful spots in Corsica such as the bay of Roccapina. A stop in Tizzano and a delicious aperitif with a local wine accompany the excursion. Find out more and book tickets here.
  • Boat trip to Iles Lavezzi and Bonifacio from Ajaccio. Discover the Lavezzi Islands and the nearby clifftop town of Bonifacio on a full-day guided boat trip. Marvel at lagoons, coral reefs, and the caves of the Bouches de Bonifacio reserve. At Plage de Tivella you can enjoy a swimming break before heading back to Ajaccio. Find out more and book your tickets here.
  • Boat tour to Bonifacio with a swimming stop at Iles Lavezzi from Ajaccio. Visit Bonifacio, swim in the pristine waters of Iles Lavezzi, sample local wines and meats, and admire magnificent views of southern Corsica. During this full-day trip, you will also stop at the exquisite cove of Roccapina. Find more details and book tickets here.
  • Boat trip in the Bouches de Bonifacio Nature Reserve from Bonifacio. Explore the Bonifacio National Park on a speedboat tour to some of the most scenic corners of Corsica. Soak up views of the Genoese tower of Capicciolu, the Lavezzi Archipelago with its stunning beaches, and the Bay of Fazzio. Go for a dip in crystal-clear waters and discover the marine life. Learn more about this 3-hour-long sea adventure and book tickets here.

BOOK A BAVELLA AND OSPEDALE FOREST 4×4 TOUR

  • Set out on an unforgettable excursion to the magical Ospedale Forest and the Needels of Bavella departing from Porto-Vecchio. This 8-hour journey guarantees the sublime mountainous scenery of Corsica’s rugged interior where wild pigs roam free and the humming of freshwater torrents is ever-present. A traditional Corsican meal is included in the price. Click here to learn more about this exciting tour and book tickets.

BOOK A GUIDED HIKING TOUR IN THE BAVELLA MASSIF

  • Enjoy a guided hiking tour to explore the classic landscapes at Col de Bavella. The excursion starts at the Bavella pass by the statue of Notre-Dame-des-Neiges. You may choose a half-a-day or a full-day scenic walk at the foot of the famous granite Needles. A meal composed of local produce is available as an option. To learn more and book tickets in advance click here.

BOOK A MOUNTAIN DAY TRIP DEPARTING FROM AJACCIO

  • Take part in a small group mountain day trip accompanied by an English-speaking guide. During the tour, you will visit an imposing waterfall, enjoy a Corsican lunch near a mountain river, and stop for swimming or kayaking at Lake Tolla. Here you may check the details of the trip and book your tickets.

The Museum of Prehistoric Corsica and Archeology in Sartene houses a fascinating collection of historic artefacts.
The Museum of Prehistoric Corsica and Archeology in Sartene houses a fascinating collection of historic artefacts.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

  • Sartene is served by several bus operators with stops at Avenue Gabriel-Péri for Eurocorse Voyages (www.eurocorse.com) and the main town square for Autocars Marcel Ricci (www.transports-voyageurs-ajaccio.fr). Departure times and fare information may be checked directly with the provider or at www.corsicabus.org.
  • For additional information on the attractions of Sartene visit the local tourist office situated at 14 Cours Soeur Amélie or consult the website www.lacorsedesorigines.com.
  • The main post office is located at Rue Nicolas Pietri near the town square.
  • Due to a one-way traffic system in the old town parking spaces within the historic walls are difficult to find. There is a free parking lot on the T40 road between the Couvent de San Damiano and the entrance to the old town or the Casino supermarket at Avenue Jacques Nicoli.

HELPFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES :


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