GLORIOUS TREK TO LAC DE MELO AND LAC DE CAPITELLO IN THE ROTONDO MASSIF

by karola

Hike to Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello, a pair of exquisite high-altitude lakes flanked by soaring peaks of the Rotondo massif in the heart of Corsica.

Short and easily accessible, this iconic trek provides spectacular views across the Restonica Valley where lush vegetation dotted with emerald river pools contrasts against the austere beauty of unspoilt wilderness surrounding the lakes.

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Gentle autumn scenery of Lac de Melo.
Gentle autumn scenery of Lac de Melo is a paradise for hikers.

LAC DE MEMO AND LAC DE CAPITELLO – LOCATION AND ACCESS

Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello are nestled in the upper valley of the magnificent Restonica River near Corte in Central Corsica, a region of superb natural beauty.

The trailhead may be approached via the scenic D623 route, a 15 km drive up the Restonica gorge where crystal water cascades into natural pools providing amazing spots for a refreshing dip.

The dramatic drive along the valley offers stupendous views over the pristine environment of scenic landscapes- towering pine forests abundant with wildlife torn by a dazzling river carving its way down the granite boulders. Rugged peaks of the Monte Rotondo range with Corsica’s second-highest summit (2622m) provide a backdrop to this nature lover’s paradise.

The dead-end D623 road ends with the Bergeries de Grotelle car park, a starting point of the celebrated hike.

The trail affords panoramic views of flower-filled meadows and glistening glacial lakes.
The trail affords panoramic views of flower-filled meadows and glistening glacial lakes.

TRAIL – LAC DE MELO

Lac de Melo- the source of the Restonica River- is a must-see destination for outdoor enthusiasts visiting central Corsica and the region of Corte. Its emerald green water and alpine pastures dominated by snow-capped peaks make for a perfect relaxing escape in the natural environment.

Situated at 1710 m and 20 m deep the lake stays frozen for 6 months of the year. With the rest of the region, it belongs to the Regional Natural Park of Corsica, a protected area rich with abundant biodiversity.

The trail starts at the Bergeries de Grotelle (1375m) with an easier section that gets steeper and more challenging towards the end. For the first 30 min, a well-marked path (yellow paint) climbs up to the Bergerie de Melo, a point where the stony trail splits.

The right-hand side route is a little shorter, although it is steeper and more technical with parts protected by chains and ladders bolted into the rock. This variant is more beautiful and exposed to astounding views of the Restonica Valley, however, travelers suffering from vertigo may experience a bout of dizziness.

The route on the left may be more suited for those who are afraid of heights and for families with children. Being a little longer it avoids metal ladders, is less open, and enjoys limited shade.

The whole trek takes around 1 hour of moderately strenuous climbing in rocky terrain rewarding your efforts with striking vistas. Green meadows of the lake are a perfect spot for a picnic while crystalline waters will quickly soothe tired feet.

Tall granite walls plunge into deep blue waters of Lac de Capitello.
Tall granite walls plunge into deep blue waters of Lac de Capitello.

TRAIL – LAC DE CAPITELLO

If you have enough energy left after the first trek you may press on and continue the ascent to Lac de Capitello.

At an elevation of 1930 m and a surface area covering 5.5 ha, it is the deepest lake in Corsica with a maximum depth of 42 m.

Famous for its austere beauty, Lac de Capitello offers strikingly different scenery compared to the alpine pastures of the Melo. With altitude, the vegetation becomes sparse exposing majestic granite walls plunging vertically into the deep blue waters of the glowing circular pool. The rugged land of the surrounding area is home to the golden eagle, the bearded vulture, and other birds of prey protected by a preservation program. The highest ridges of the Rotondo massif are covered with snow until early summer and the lake stays frozen for 8 months of the year.

To get to the Capitello follow a steep yellow-marked path on the right side of Lac de Melo. It’s a hard and strenuous climb along rocky terrain with some scramble sections suited for fit travelers. Due to parts of steep rock where you need to pull yourself up with the use of chains, the hike is not advised for people suffering from vertigo and young children.

The ascent takes around 45 minutes and just before reaching the lake, it crosses a stream.

Awe-inspiring views and the otherworldly atmosphere of this wild beauty spot are well worth the effort. Translucent waters of the Capitello stay cold even in hot summer months although the most courageous hikers opt for an invigorating dip. The less brave may rest, unwind and take their time to savour the unparalleled panoramas.

BOCCA ALLE PORTE

For beautiful vistas of both lakes you may push on even further to Bocca alle Porte (Brèche de Capitello), a mountain pass rising 2200 m above sea level, a demanding destination advised only for experienced hikers.

To reach the Bocca follow the path on the left side of the lake towards the GR20 trail and the Manganu refuge. The trail track is very stony and steep, a rough terrain where special caution must be exercised. After 30 minutes of strenuous climbing, you will reach the iconic GR20 trail marked with white and red paint. Turn right and follow the path for another half an hour to reach the Bocca alle Porte pass. A more exposed section towards the end is secured with chains to facilitate the traverse.

Breath-taking views from the top encompass Monte d’Oro on the right, both lakes below, the Restonica Valley, and Monte San Pedrone.

The descent in the tricky terrain is difficult and the rock surface may be slippery. Be sure to place your feet carefully and keep your concentration up until the end to ensure safety.

Rugged peaks of the Monte Rotondo massif provide a beautiful backdrop to the pair of glacial lakes.
Rugged peaks of the Monte Rotondo massif provide a beautiful backdrop to the pair of glacial lakes.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

  • Estimated hiking time (excluding breaks) – ASCENT: Bergeries de Grotelle (1370 m) – Lac de Melo (1711 m) : 1 h, Lac de Melo – Lac de Capitello (1930 m) : 45 min, Lac de Capitello – Bocca alle Porte (2200 m) : 1 h. DESCENT : Bocca alle Porte – Lac de Capitello : 40 min, Lac de Capitello – Lac de Melo : 35 min, Lac de Melo – Bergeries de Grotelle : 45 min.
  • The difficulty level of the hike is classified as moderate with an elevation gain of 600 m for both lakes. Although short, the trek must not be underestimated as the challenging rocky and steep terrain is suitable only for fit travelers in good physical condition. Depending on fitness level, families with children aged 10 and above may enjoy the first trek to Lac de Melo.
  • At high altitudes, the weather may change rapidly- be prepared and carry an additional layer and a wind jacket.
  • Check weather forecasts before your hike and avoid the trail in the rain when the rock surface becomes slippery.
  • Wear hiking shoes with good traction. Trekking poles may be useful on steep stretches.
  • With little to no shade along the trail, a high-SPF sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are indispensable.
  • Because of its accessibility paired with remarkable beauty, the trail gets very crowded in summer. Arrive early in the morning to find a parking space close to the trailhead.
  • Spring and autumn offer a less frequented experience and comfortable temperatures. The trail is covered in snow during winter months.
  • In season you may use a shuttle service to take you to Bergeries de Grotelle, a starting point of the hike.
  • Carry plenty of water, sandwiches, and snacks for a pop of energy on steeper climbs.
  • Thirty minutes into your climb, at Bergerie de Melo, you may purchase refreshments.
  • A source of potable water is available near the Melo Lake.
  • There are no public toilets available.

HELPFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES


Liability Disclaimer

All outdoor activities are carried out at your own risk. Always plan ahead and be cautious when preparing for your hikes. The author of this blog cannot be held responsible in the event of an accident, death, loss, personal injury, or any other inconvenience or damage that may be sustained by anyone as a result of the use of any information contained on this website.


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2 comments

FGM August 15, 2023 - 11:58 pm

Hello! Your photographs are truly beautiful and we thank you for the wealth of information on your website! We will visit Corsica for the 1st time from mid-end of September and your website is the most helpful we found on the internet. The one thing missing on our itinerary are hot springs, do you have suggestions where I can find a list? We will arrive in Bastia and make our way (through Corte) to Ajaccio, then to Porto Vecchio (through Sartene and Bonifacio) with some day trips north on the T10. We will have a rental car for some of the trip and can only do easy hiking at this point (le défi de pensioners!). Also do you have any comments to share about train travel in Corsica? Thanks very much! Grace

Reply
karola August 16, 2023 - 7:01 am

Hello Grace,

Thank you for your very kind words, I am thrilled that you find the site helpful. Corsica is truly beautiful but still relatively undiscovered. You will love your time here and September is, in my opinion, the most pleasant month for visiting.

As to hot springs, I know of the following places: Les bains de Caldanelle near Vico, Bains de Baracci in Olmeto and Les Bains de Caldane in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. There is also a hot spring in Guitera-les-Bains, however, the Spa is now closed.

As you may have already found, public transport in Corsica is limited although the train ride between Bastia and Ajaccio is an attraction in itself- the train passes through some of the most beautiful mountain sites of the island.

Your itinerary is great, you will have a chance to see many lovely sites, temperatures will remain in mid 20s and sea water will still be warm.

Grace, you may contact me on my email if you have any other questions, I am more than happy to help you out with advice and additional information.

I wish you and your close ones all the best,

Karola

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