CALANQUES DE PIANA – DISCOVER CORSICA’S MYTHIC LANDSCAPES ON THE OLD MULE TRAIL

Follow the ancient mule trail in Calanches de Piana to discover one of Corsica’s must-visit destinations perfect for travellers seeking extraordinary natural wonders.

This historic path linking Piana and Ota, once trodden by mules and villagers, now serves as a gateway to the captivating world of coastal treasures- 300-meters tall porphyry cliffs and elements-shaped rock formations descending into the azure expanse of the Mediterranean.

Short and easy, this scenic hike provides a glimpse into a bygone era, and with its otherworldly views, will leave you utterly spellbound.

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CALANQUES DE PIANA

Calanques de Piana (also called Calanches de Piana), located on Corsica’s west coast, are a breathtaking natural wonder that captivates visitors from around the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized since 1983, stretches for about 5 kilometres along the coast, boasting an arresting chaos of pink porphyry rock formations sculpted by millennia of erosion.

As you explore nature’s fantastical spectacle lit by the setting sun’s glow, the bizarre granitic shapes come alive in innumerable mesmerizing forms. Plunging dramatically into the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea, the Calanches also make for a fabulous boat trip attraction.

This stunning rocky paradise is part of a larger protected area within the Gulf of Porto that also includes the Scandola Nature Reserve and the isolated village of Girolata, collectively forming one of Corsica’s most significant tourist landmarks.

BEST SEASON TO VISIT THE CALANCHES

In terms of season, the best time to enjoy this scenic walk is during spring or autumn, when temperatures are pleasant without being too high and tourist traffic is still limited. From April to June, the fragrant Corsican maquis explodes with a colourful profusion of flowers contrasting beautifully with the rocks’ vivid red hues. September and October, on the other hand, offer a more tranquil experience when the late season’s aura creates a nostalgic encounter with the Calanches’ timeless beauty.

I best enjoy Corsica’s coastal walks in winter when trails are virtually deserted, while mild temperatures and the sun’s soft glow allow for comfortable exploration without the oppressive heat.

BEST TIME OF THE DAY FOR YOUR VISIT

When it comes to the time of the day, if only possible, pick late afternoon for your visit to the Calanches. The setting sun casts a warm light on the twisted rocks, bringing out their vibrant red, orange, and pink hues. With scenery turning dramatic, shadows become longer making granitic textures and details truly stand out.

The ancient mule track above the Calanches is also a magnificent place to take photos of Corsica’s spectacular sunsets. On this west-facing natural balcony, you will have a perfect vantage point to capture almost otherworldly scenery in a magical atmosphere.

During peak season, you won’t be alone in wanting to witness nature’s flamboyant display at day’s end. If you prefer to avoid crowds and enjoy the Calanches’ charms in peace, consider arriving early in the morning when the trail is empty and the air is crisp.

WHEN TO AVOID THE OLD MULE TRACK?

• In stormy, rainy, or windy weather conditions

• After the rain when the stony path is still slippery

• During the hottest part of the day in summer

• In the peak tourist season, when holidaymakers flock in to discover Corsica’s famous rocky landmark

ACCESS AND PARKING

The trail starts at Stade Municipal de Piana (the Piana football pitch), 1.6 km east of the village, off the scenic D81 road. If you arrive from Porto, after around 10 kilometers turn left from D81 into a road marked for Stade Municipal. Leave your vehicle at the stadium car park. To get to the trailhead, walk across the pitch to its furthest end.

THE OLD MULE TRAIL

DISTANCE – 3.2km round trip | ELEVATION – 165m | DIFFICULTY – easy | TIME – 1-1.5h

At the Piana stadium’s furthest end, cross a small footbridge immediately leading to the next one. Pass it and turn left into a yellow-marked path Ancien Chemin de Piana à Ota, ignoring the stony trail ahead leading to Capu d’Ortu. You will enter a wooded area where a twisting piste will start climbing the hill.

Soon you will arrive at a small plateau from where you will get the first glimpse of the old mule track’s wall hugging the granitic outcrop ahead. Continue in its direction following the path towards Vierge des Calanches (which means Virgin of the Calanches, referring to Madonna’s statue on the other side of the track). Disregard the right-turning trail for Les Roches Blues and Bocca di Piazza.

ON THE ROCKY LEDGE

Once you enter the paved path supported at times by dry-stone banks you will be granted increasingly breathtaking views of the Porto Gulf and the Calanches. Take your time to appreciate the full scope of this UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing the dramatic interplay of crimson-red cliffs against the Mediterranean’s cobalt-blue waters. Keep your camera handy for a chance to immortalize these unforgettable panoramas.

The trail encircling the rocky promontory is easy to navigate, but you must remain vigilant and step carefully, as, at times the ledge remains exposed featuring steep drops and vertiginous heights on its western side.

DESCENT TO THE ROAD

The natural balcony facing the bay ends with a steep descent to the scenic D81 winding through the Calanches where a statue of the Virgin Mary embedded into the rock face above the road guards the region. Although short, the downhill walk remains quite technical, abounding with large granitic steps that may become slippery. Tread carefully and use hiking poles to avoid falls.

If you fancy a short respite accompanied by a refreshing drink or a tasty meal, follow the road eastwards for another 400 meters to a beautifully set restaurant Les Roches Blues. Views from its terrace are stunning but prices do reflect the venue’s privileged position.

GETTING BACK

Upon reaching the tarmac, you have two options to return to your car. You can either retrace your steps via the old mule track, with its initial steep ascent or follow the D81 route in the direction of Piana, to the village’s stadium car park.

Many visitors choose the latter alternative to experience a different perspective of the breathtaking scenery. If you decide to cover the remaining 1.4 kilometres via the road, be sure to stop for photos in front of Le Cœur de la Corse, a heart-shaped formation carved into the crimson rock by natural forces. This spot is also a popular romantic location for wedding photos among newlyweds from the region.

SAFETY TIPS

• Check weather forecasts before setting out as conditions may change rapidly in Corsica. Postpone your hike in case of storm, rain or strong winds.
• Wear appropriate footwear to comfortably navigate the rocky Corsican terrain.
• If possible, use hiking poles to aid stability on the slippy stones.
• Carry water to hydrate your escapade, particularly in summer. Although short, the walk has some steep parts.
• In high season, use SPF protection on exposed skin, wear sunglasses, and a brimmed hat.
• Stick to the marked trail and avoid venturing into the rocky areas.

HIKING THE MULE TRACK WITH CHILDREN

Before tackling the Calanches trail with your family, assess your children’s ability to navigate challenging terrain featuring varied surfaces- stones, high rocky steps, and soil. The path requires good shoes, attention to footing, and a reasonable level of fitness to tread safely.

Also, consider the walk’s exposed areas. Some sections have sheer drop-offs where you must be cautious of loose rocks, above-ground tree roots, and other tripping hazards, keeping your children within arm’s reach. For your photo breaks, choose spots away from the cliff’s edge where your little ones can enjoy secure mobility and maintain good balance.

FEARING HIGHTS?

Although the Calanches de Piana mule trail offers phenomenal views, it may challenge those fearing dizzying heights. Truly exposed stretches where the ridge steeply drops off mark the beginning of the paved old track. The path becomes much more secure as you proceed to the part overlooking the Porto bay.

The best way to tackle the trail’s most uncomfortable but luckily short sections is to focus on the route ahead rather than look at exposed areas, which can heighten anxiety. Panoramic, awe-inspiring views unveiled at each bend will compensate abundantly for your unease making distress disappear (at least that happened in my case and I always get lightheaded on vertical rocks).

However, if feelings of fear become too overwhelming, it’s perfectly fine to turn back and explore other, less intimidating routes in the Calanches, such as the easy Chateau Fort hike. You may also embark on a boat tour of this spellbinding region departing from one of Corsica’s coastal towns. At the end of this post, I present the most attractive sea excursions which often include a visit to the Scandola Nature Reserve and a swimming break.

OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

• Scandola Nature Reserve
• Capo d’Orto ascent
• Hike to Girolata via Sentier de Facteur
• Coastal towns- Piana, Porto, and Cargèse
• Spelunca Gorges natural swimming pools
• Capo Rosso hike
• Arone beach
• Hike to Tour de Omigna, a Genoese watchtower
• Porto-Evisa scenic drive

WHERE TO STAY

PORTO

• Capo d’Orto Hotel (€€)
• Les Flots Bleus (€)
• Hotel Bella Vista (€)

PIANA

• Hotel Capo Rosso (€€)
• Hotel Scandola (€€)

CARGESE

• Villa Flaka Boutique Hotel (€€€)
• Résidence Roc E Mare (€)
• Domaine de Saint Pierre (€)
• Residenza L’Alivetu (€)
• Hotel et Résidence Ta Kladia – Omigna (€)

VISITING CALANCHES DE PIANA BY BOAT

BEST TOURS FROM PORTO

• Calanches de Piana, Scandola and Girolata boat tour. A 3-hour thrilling excursion to the landmarks of the northwest coast of Corsica. A small semi-rigid navigates close to the caves and cliffs.
• Capo Rosso, Calanches de Piana and Scandola boat tour. A 3-hour trip on a family-friendly boat to the Scandola Reserve and Calanches de Piana. The excursion includes a swimming break. Snorkeling gear is provided and the vessel is adapted for children.
• Semi-submarine visit to the seabed of Porto Bay. View and explore the fauna and flora of Porto Bay’s seabed dominated by the Calanches. Two circuits are offered depending on weather conditions. If you are lucky you may even spot the dolphins.

BEST TOURS FROM CARGESE

• Scandola, Girolata and Calanques de Piana day cruise. A 7-hour trip aboard a comfortable boat with shaded areas, toilets, and a bar. Includes a visit to the most iconic places of the reserve with a 2-hour stop in Girolatta and a break for swimming.
• Discovery tour to Capo Rosso, Scandola, Calanques de Piana, and Girolata. A friendly 6-hour cruise to Scandola aboard a medium-sized boat with experienced sailors. You will enjoy a 2-hour break in the picturesque village of Girolata.
• Calanches de Piana, Scandola, and Girolata boat trip. A 4.5-hour speedboat tour of the emblematic scenic sights with a swimming break and a 30-minute stop in Girolata. Commentary may be provided in various languages.

BEST TOURS FROM SAGONE

• Scandola, Girolata and Calanques de Piana day cruise. A 7-hour trip aboard a comfortable boat with shaded areas, toilets, and a bar. Includes a visit to the most iconic places of the reserve with a 2-hour stop in Girolatta and a break for swimming.
• Scandola, Girolata and Calanques de Piana boat tour. A 6-hour trip to Scandola and the Calanches with a 2.5-hour break in Girolata. The vessel provides 73 seats and a live or audio guide of the tour.
• Calanches de Piana, Scandola, and Girolata boat trip. A 4.5-hour speedboat tour of the emblematic scenic sights with a swimming break and a 30-minute stop in Girolata. Commentary may be provided in various languages.

BEST TOURS FROM AJACCIO

• Capo Rosso, Scandola and Girolata boat trip. A 9-hour speedboat adventure to the coastal site of Scandola. The tour includes several swimming breaks, a stopover in Girolata and an aperitif.
• Capo Rosso, Scandola Reserve, and Girolata boat tour with an appetizer. A full-day tour to Capo Rosso and Scandola with a stopover in Girolata. During your trip, you will also enjoy a swimming break and a light snack of local produce and wine.

BEST TOURS FROM CALVI

• Scandola, Girolata and Calanches de Piana boat tour. A scenic 4-hour trip to the most iconic landscapes in Corsica. You will explore the fascinating rocky chaos of Scandola, visit the picturesque village of Girolata, and admire the red-coloured Calanches cliffs.
• Private boat tour of Scandola Nature Reserve. A half-day tour to explore the scenery of Scandola, a volcanic Unesco site, on a comfortable boat with your private skipper. You will have an opportunity to enjoy a swim in one of the most beautiful places in Corsica. Enjoy a perfect summer experience on the sea.

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