GLORIOUS TREK TO LAC DE MELO AND LAC DE CAPITELLO IN THE ROTONDO MASSIF

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Deep within Corsica’s rugged heart, the iconic hike to Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello from Restonica Valley is no ordinary mountain stroll- it’s a strenuous yet thrilling ascent into some of the island’s most breathtaking wilderness.

The pair of exquisite high-altitude lakes, flanked by soaring peaks of Rotondo Massif in central Corsica, has long been a go-to destination for explorers eager to witness nature’s force and its timeless, awe-inspiring beauty.  Those willing to take up the challenge are rewarded with striking views of shimmering green waters of Melo, and the stark, glacial beauty of Capitello, scenery where the splendour of the great outdoors feels almost overwhelming.

In the wake of the 2023 floods that tore through Restonica Valley, washing away sections of the mountain road, what once was a short and easily accessible trek now demands a much longer approach and plenty of stamina. This extended route strips away any trace of the casual day-trip, transforming the hike into a true test of endurance and spirit. Read on for key insights on the trail in these classic Corsican landscapes to ensure the most memorable and safe experience.

! The Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello trek is considered very difficult due to the hike’s length, technical challenges, significant difference in altitude, and intensive physical effort required to accomplish it. It should only be undertaken by hikers with extensive mountain walking experience in excellent health !

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LOCATION

Lac de Melo (1710m) and Lac de Capitello (1930m) are nestled in the upper valley of the magnificent Restonica River near Corte in Central Corsica- a region of superb natural beauty. The rugged peaks of Monte Rotondo Massif, with the island’s second-highest summit (2622m), provide a dramatic backdrop to the gorge’s crystal-clear, sapphire-hued natural pools and dense pine forests. Abounding in numerous scenic trails, this pristine territory is a magnet for adventurers and hikers, enchanted by nature’s majestic beauty.

ACCESS

In the past, the trailhead was situated at Bergeries de Grotelle, which could be easily approached via the scenic D623 route running from Corte up the Restonica gorge. However, following heavy rainfall in autumn 2023, parts of the 15-kilometre-long mountain road have been badly damaged, limiting car access to the valley.

Today, the trek to Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello starts at the A Frasseta (900m) car park in Restonica, 6 kilometres before Bergeries de Grotelle (1375m). Note that it adds considerable distance and elevation gain to the entire journey. Car traffic on D623 is regulated to ensure the most efficient and secure transportation of visitors. Rules are as follows:

• From 1 October to 14 November 2024 and from 31 March to 30 April 2025, car access to A Frasseta remains available.
• The D623 road is closed to traffic from Tuani for the winter period, from 15 November 2024 to 30 March 2025.
• From 2 May to 30 September, a shuttle bus provides access to A Frassetta, the trailhead, from Corte.

SHUTTLE SERVICE IN RESTONICA VALLEY

Since the devastating 2023 floods damaged sections of the D623 road, the authorities have organised a shuttle service, Navetta Restonica C13, connecting the Corte station (Corti Gara, in front of the Santos Manfredi stadium) with A Frasseta (the trailhead) in Restonica.  There are six stops along the way: Corti Gara, St-Antoine, Chjarasgiolu, Tuani, Riviseccu, and the final stop, A Frasseta. Access to the shuttle requires a prior reservation on the M-Ticket Via Corsica Restonica application, with no on-board sales or cash payments. Tickets cost €4 for the round trip, while children under 8 are free of charge.

Bear in mind that there is no network coverage in the Restonica valley; therefore, make your reservation in Corte or another location where the signal is available. Once you download the M-Ticket Via Corsica Restonica application on iPhone and Android, select your round-trip ticket and proceed to payment (via Visa, Mastercard, Apple Pay, or Google Pay). When boarding the shuttle, both on the outward and return journeys, present your ticket to the driver.

Consult the official site for detailed shuttle timetables and the bus itinerary at https://www.isula.corsica/Navetta-Restonica-C13_a4624.html. You can also visit the Corte tourist board website https://tourisme-centrecorse.corsica, where all essential information is regularly updated.

TRAIL – LAC DE MELO

DISTANCE 16 km round trip | ELEVATION 900 m | DIFFICULTY GRADE very difficult | TIME 6.5-7.5 h round trip

Lac de Melo- Restonica River’s source- is one of Corsica’s flagship natural attractions, cherished by outdoor enthusiasts visiting the region of Corte. Its emerald green water and alpine pastures dominated by snow-capped peaks make for an unforgettable escape in the wilderness. Nestled at an altitude of 1710 m and 20 meters deep, the lake stays frozen for 6 months of the year. With the rest of the region, it belongs to the Regional Natural Park of Corsica, a protected area rich in abundant biodiversity.

The trail starts at the A Frasseta car park (900m) where a red-marked trail meanders its way up to Bergeries de Grotelle (1375m). This part of the hike is considered moderately difficult, with a significant elevation gain and no water sources.

From Bergeries de Grotelle, continue along the yellow-marked trail, via an easier section that gets steeper and more challenging towards the lake.

Past the old Bergerie de Melo, the stony trail splits. The right-hand side route is a little shorter, although it is steeper and more technical, with parts protected by chains and ladders bolted into the rock. This variant is more beautiful and exposed to astounding views of Restonica Valley; however, travellers suffering from vertigo may experience a bout of dizziness. The route on the left may be more suited for those who are afraid of heights. Being a little longer, it avoids metal ladders, is less open, and enjoys limited shade.

The trek’s final part, from Bergeries de Grotelle to Lac de Melo, takes around 1 hour of moderately strenuous climbing in rocky terrain, rewarding the efforts with striking vistas. The lake’s green meadows are a perfect spot for a picnic, while the crystalline waters quickly soothe tired feet. Near the guardian’s refuge, you will also find a water source.

TRAIL – LAC DE CAPITELLO

DISTANCE 18 km round trip | ELEVATION 1120 m | DIFFICULTY GRADE very difficult | TIME 8-9 h round trip

If you have enough energy left, you may press on and continue the ascent to Lac de Capitello. At an elevation of 1930 m and a surface area covering 5.5 ha, it is the deepest lake in Corsica, with a maximum depth of 42 m.

Famous for its austere beauty, Lac de Capitello offers strikingly different scenery compared to Melo’s alpine pastures. With altitude, the vegetation becomes sparse, exposing majestic granite walls plunging vertically into the deep blue waters of the glowing circular pool. The rugged land of the surrounding area is home to the golden eagle, the bearded vulture, and other birds of prey protected by a preservation program. The highest ridges of the Rotondo massif are covered with snow until early summer, and the lake stays frozen for 8 months of the year.

To get to Lac de Capitello, follow a steep, yellow-marked path on the right side of Lac de Melo. It’s a hard and strenuous climb along rocky terrain with some scramble sections suited only for fit travellers. Due to parts of steep rock where you need to pull yourself up with the use of chains, the hike is not advised for people suffering from vertigo. The ascent takes around 45 minutes, and just before reaching the lake, it crosses a stream.

Awe-inspiring views and the otherworldly atmosphere of this wild spot are well worth the effort. Capitello’s translucent waters stay cold even in the hot summer months, although the most courageous hikers opt for an invigorating dip. The less brave may rest, unwind and take their time to savour the unparalleled panoramas.

BOCCA ALLE PORTE

For beautiful vistas of both lakes, you may push on even further to Bocca alle Porte (Brèche de Capitello), a mountain pass rising 2200 m above sea level, a demanding destination advised only for very experienced hikers.

To reach the Bocca, follow the path on the left side of the lake towards the GR20 trail and the Manganu refuge. The trail track is very stony and steep, a rough terrain where special caution must be exercised. After 30 minutes of strenuous climbing, you will reach the iconic GR20 trail marked with white and red paint. Turn right and follow the path for another half an hour to reach the Bocca alle Porte pass. A more exposed section towards the end is secured with chains to facilitate the traverse.

Breath-taking views from the top encompass Monte d’Oro on the right, both lakes below, the Restonica Valley, and Monte San Pedrone.

The descent in the tricky terrain is difficult, and the rock surface may be slippery. Be sure to place your feet carefully and keep your concentration up until the end to ensure safety.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

• The Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello trek is considered very difficult due to the hike’s length, technical challenges, significant difference in altitude, and intensive physical effort required to accomplish it. It should only be undertaken by hikers with extensive mountain walking experience in excellent health.
• The hike is not suitable for children.
• Check weather forecasts before setting out, and avoid the trail in the rain when the rock surface becomes slippery.
• At high altitudes, the weather may change rapidly- be prepared and carry an additional layer of clothing and a wind jacket.
• Wear hiking shoes with good traction. Trekking poles are useful on steep stretches.
• With little to no shade along the trail’s upper sections, a high-SPF sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are indispensable.
• Spring and autumn offer more comfortable temperatures. The trail is covered in snow during the winter months.
• Carry plenty of water, sandwiches, and high-calorie snacks for a pop of energy on steeper climbs.
• A source of potable water is available near Melo Lake.
• There are no public toilets available.

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HELPFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES

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