PLANNING A CORSICA ROAD TRIP? DON’T MISS DÉFILÉ DE L’INZECCA GORGE

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LOCATION AND GEOGRAPHY

Défilé de l’Inzecca Gorge is situated in the centre of Corsica’s east coast, south of Aléria, and around 10 kilometres east of the mountain village of Ghisoni. The canyon, along with the neighbouring Défilé des Strettes, was carved by the 46-kilometre-long Fium’Orbu river, with its source in the Monte Renoso massif at 1750 meters. The gorge itself stretches for about 4 kilometres, with its most impressive section 2 kilometres immediately before (or after, if arriving from Ghisoni) the Sampolo dam tunnel.

AWE-INSPIRING SCENERY

The valley abounds in breathtaking landscapes characteristic of Corsica’s magnificent mountainous regions, contrasting with the tranquil, vineyard-carpeted territory of Eastern Plains. A deep, rocky gorge winds through towering cliffs, with ancient, weather-beaten trees clinging to the rock faces. Below, transparent river waters flow towards the Tyrrhenian Sea, cascading over a wild chaos of giant boulders, forming emerald-hued natural pools. Fragrant Corsican plants cover the hills, providing shelter to numerous endemic fauna species. An irresistible sanctuary where the wilderness thrives in its pristine, untouched splendour.

WHEN TO VISIT?

Défilé de l’Inzecca is fabulous throughout the year, although visiting outside the summer season, during spring or autumn, will grant you a less crowded, serene experience.

From the end of April, the melting snow from Monte Renoso feeds the river, creating lively cascades, while the surrounding Mediterranean vegetation blooms with colourful flowers, making the gorge truly vibrant. Summer brings clear, warm weather perfect for relaxing and splashing in the torrent’s cool waters.

In Autumn, the gorge bathes in amber hues as the foliage changes, offering spectacular views enhanced by the season’s soft light. Winter is equally magical. The backdrop of snow-capped peaks adds a majestic touch to Inzecca’s mineral landscapes, whereas the scenic D344 route remains virtually traffic-free.

DÉFILÉ DE L’INZECCA SCENIC DRIVE

Défilé de l’Inzecca is best explored by car, via the D344, between Saint-Antoine and Ghisoni. Although the entire 18-kilometre stretch is magnificent, the most dramatic scenery is revealed along the 2-kilometre section before the Sampolo tunnel, driving from the east.

The road clings to the cliffside above the Fium’Orbu river. Narrow and winding, it features tight turns and dramatic rock walls of red and green serpentinite, creating a glorious natural spectacle that unfolds with every bend. Several pull-offs offer breathtaking panoramas of the riverbed strewn with huge boulders and towering vertical rocks. Keep your camera ready to capture this scenic display, but when driving, watch the route ahead.

SAMPOLO RESERVOIR

Once past the tunnel, you will arrive at the Sampolo Reservoir (378m), formed by the Barrage du Sampolo. Built between 1987 and 1991, the concrete dam stands over 32 meters high and 93 meters long, creating a nearly 25-hectare lake. Managed by EDF (Électricité de France), the reservoir supplies hydroelectricity and irrigation water to the region.

The lake’s surroundings are simply stunning, displaying spellbinding, calm scenery, distinct from the gorge’s rugged setting. Leave your vehicle at the car park by the reservoir and enjoy a picnic at the water’s edge. Bask in the sight’s serenity, watching the forest’s reflections upon the lake’s mirror-like surface. With a bit of luck, you may even catch a glimpse of local bats that dwell in the area.

DÉFILÉ DES STRETTES

The scenic 9-kilometre stretch between the Sampolo reservoir and Ghisoni is known as Défilé des Strette. As you approach the village, the jagged silhouette of the Monte Renoso massif rises dramatically on the horizon, granting breathtaking vistas. Travel here in winter or spring, and you’ll be treated to picturesque panoramas of snow-covered peaks, their summits soaring above 2000 meters.

Along this section, the river meanders gently through lush, verdant banks, its waters now more accessible for refreshing swims in natural pools. Several locations, such as Piscine du Fiumorbo, grant excellent swimming in the torrent’s crystalline water. Other highlights include Pont de Mela, a beautiful double-arched Genoese bridge, and historic fountains hidden among the greenery.

PISCINE DU FIUMORBO NATURAL POOLS

4.3 kilometres from the tunnel’s exit, on the road to Ghisoni, is a large, long basin with transparent, tepid water, ideal for swimming and splashing. Surrounded by grandiose landscapes, the canyon’s deeper sections are great for cooling dips, while two small beaches have enough space to spread a towel.

To access the river, leave your car at a clearing by the road, 200 meters past the pools. Go back along the route to a spot where steps lead down to the canyon, marked with a large metal structure. In the new river guide, you will find other magnificent locations across Corsica perfect for wild swimming.

GHISONI VILLAGE

The sinuous road trailing the Fium’Orbu river leads eventually to Ghisoni, a beautiful mountain village, nestled at the foot of the Christe Eleison (1260m) and Kyrie Eleison (1535) peaks. Its origins go back to the early 14th century, but traces of human activity were known as early as the 5th century.

Ghisoni’s turbulent past is marked by dramatic episodes, including the tragic fate of the Ghjuvannali, a dissident Franciscan brotherhood persecuted in the Middle Ages for their radical beliefs. Key historic monuments include the 15th-century Chapel of Santa Croce, the church of Santa Maria, and the 19th-century Neptune Fountain crowned with a cast iron statue.

The village is also a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts, offering numerous hiking trails, including the iconic GR20, that wind through ancient chestnut forests, granite peaks, and alpine meadows. Adventure seekers can tackle the panoramic trail to Lac de Bastani and Monte Renoso, or explore hidden natural pools along the Fium’Orbu river. The Ghisoni Adventure Park (https://parc-aventure-ghisoni.com/) provides treetop thrills with rope bridges, zip lines and suspended tunnels. Mountain bikers and climbers, on the other hand, will find plenty of challenging terrain.

DRIVING TIPS

• Fill up the tank before you hit the road. Petrol stations are few and far between in the Corsican mountains.
• The route can be driven in either direction. Starting from Ghisoni allows easier access to roadside viewpoints on the east side of the drive.
• Drive slowly, especially around tight bends, where visibility is limited and the road is narrow.
• Stay in your lane without cutting corners.
• Watch out for sections where two vehicles can’t pass simultaneously.  Pull over at a safe spot and wait for oncoming traffic to clear before proceeding.
• Stop only at designated spaces to avoid obstructing traffic.
• Stay alert for wildlife or livestock that may unexpectedly appear on the road.
• Always wear seat belts and obey Corsican driving laws, including driving on the right side and adhering to speed limits.
• Use your horn if necessary to warn others on blind bends or narrow sections.
• Avoid distractions and focus on the road, as the stunning scenery can divert attention.
• Consider postponing your journey in poor weather.

CAPANELLE SKI STATION

Should you wish to explore the era more extensively, visit the small Capanelle ski station, 20 kilometres up from Ghisoni, via a succession of zig-zags.  At the end of the journey, turn right for the U Renosu gite, where a large car park (1670 m) culminating the twisting ride affords spectacular views of the region. It is also the starting point for a scenic hike to Lac de Bastani (2090m) and Monte Renoso (2352m).

In winter, Capanelle offers five pistes, two reds, one blue, and two greens, served by three vintage drag lifts, all with panoramas over the Fium’Orbu valley and the distant sea. After a session of skiing or snowshoeing, refuel in a rustic bergerie, sampling local pizzas and chilled beer.

LAC DE BASTANI AND MONTE RENOSO HIKE

Apart from the exciting road trip through Corsica’s canyons, experienced hikers may enjoy scenic trekking to Lac de Bastani and Monte Renoso. The lake, nestled beautifully at 2090 meters, is a glacial gem with emerald waters, frozen most of the year. Surrounded by granite boulders and wild alpine meadows, it’s a magical site that remains quiet even in season. The hike from the E Capanelle ski station leads through the windswept Plateau de Pizzolo, where cows graze among the pretty pozzi, before climbing to Bastani’s surreal, mineral scenery.

From here, seasoned explorers can ascend Monte Renoso (2352m), one of Corsica’s more easily accessible two-thousanders. The technical climb is rewarded with a sweeping 360° panorama over Corsica’s rugged peaks, stretching as far as Sardinia on clear days. The landscape is wild, remote, and unforgettable.

BOCCA DI SORBA

If hiking is not your thing, you may continue your trip along D69 from Ghisoni to Bocca di Sorba. At 1311 meters, it is one of Corsica’s highest mountain passes, cutting through the wild heart of the Monte Renoso massif. In the past, it was part of automotive events like the popular Tour de Corse rally. The twisting road is narrow, abounding with tight hairpin bends, but the views are stunning. The pass is often battered by fierce northern winds and, in winter, it may be dusted with snow, making the landscape stark and dramatic.

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