DISCOVER DESERT DES AGRIATES AND ITS PARADISIACAL BEACHES

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Explore Desert des Agriates, a fascinating, rugged territory of unspoilt landscapes, rich fauna, and paradisical beaches. Virtually untouched by human development, this protected natural site in northern Corsica is one of the island’s top destinations for outdoor enthusiasts.

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DESERT DES AGRIATES – LOCATION

Desert des Agriates covers nearly 16000 hectares of wild rocky terrain situated between the Gulf of Saint Florent in the east and the Ostriconi Valley to the west. Its stunning 37 km long coastline incorporates dazzling turquoise-water beaches, rugged peninsulas, and rocky creeks.

Le Sentier des Douaniers, a trail running along the seashore, provides footpath access to the spectacular coastal scenery and wildlife of northern Corsica.

The territory is crossed by only one road, a winding departmental route D81 marking the southern limits of the Agriates. From D81, two tracks head north towards the scenic littoral. The 13 km long Malfacu piste starting at Bocca di Vezzu leads to the remote Plage de Ghignu, whereas the path beginning in Casta runs for 12 km to the heavenly Plage de Saleccia. Both trails are only suitable for 4WD vehicles.

DESERT DES AGRIATES – ESSENTIAL FACTS

• Desert des Agriates is the largest territory of uninhabited wilderness in Corsica, with 5700 out of 16000 hectares of the total area being a protected site controlled by Conservatoire du Littoral (www.conservatoire-du-littoral.fr).
• The Agriates, today referred to as a desert, is, in fact, a region of abundant vegetation adapted to local climatic conditions. The endemic flora includes holm oak, olive trees, myrtle, strawberry tree, rock rose and other plants that form the characteristic Corsican maquis.
• The Agriates’ windswept landscapes are characterized by rugged rock formations. Cime d’Itona (499 m) is the desert’s highest point, however, it is Monte Ghjenuva (421 m) that stands out due to its distinguished pyramid-like shape.
• The territory’s wild western sector is a protected area, while the east part is home to 70 hectares of native Corsican vines producing excellent AOP Patrimonio wines.
• Accessible on foot via the Sentier des Douaniers path, the Agriates’ jagged coastline is blessed with some of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful beaches. White dunes washed by azure waters are nature lovers’ perfect escape.
• The village of Casta, located on the D81 road, is the only hamlet situated within the desert. It is also a starting point of a 12 km long trail leading to the superb beach of Saleccia.
• In the past, the Agriates served as the granary of the island, whose fertile soils fed generations of Corsicans. Olive oil, wheat, figs, and almonds were cultivated to be later exchanged for the goat’s and ewe’s cheese brought by shepherds from Niolo and Asco.
• Wildfires and controlled burns of the 20^th century savaged the fertile lands, leaving behind stone huts known as pagliaghi, which were previously used to store wheat by local farmers.

LE SENTIER DES DOUANIERS – A SCENIC COASTAL PATH IN THE AGRIATES

The delightful succession of pristine sandy beaches, jagged headlands and rocky coves can be admired from the famous scenic trail known as Le Sentier des Douaniers. 37 km long, the itinerary may be divided into three stages to be covered over 2-3 days.

1. SAINT FLORENT – PLAGE DE SALECCIA (5h30) The first stretch of the trail runs through scented Mediterranean scrubland to some of Corsica’s most beautiful beaches- Plage du Lotu and Plage de Saleccia. Main landmarks include the Fornali lighthouse and la Tour de Mortella, a Genoese tower that, over centuries, played a vital role as part of Saint Florent’s surveillance and defence systems. Drinking water is available at the U Paradisu camping bordering the Saleccia beach.
2. PLAGE DE SALECCIA – PLAGE DE GHIGNU (2h45) A much less frequented second stage of the route offers true coastal wilderness contrasted by the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Gite de Etape, situated above the Ghignu beach, provides simple accommodation in stone sheepfolds but no drinking water.
3. PLAGE DE GHIGNU – PLAGE DE l’OSTRICONI (6h) At the last part of the trail, landscapes become more austere with large granite blocks descending into the sea. Plage de l’Acciolu offers the best conditions for a refreshing dip.

LE SENTIER DES DOUANIERS HIKE – PRACTICAL TIPS

• The micro-region of the Agriates is characterized by high temperatures and strong hot winds during summer. Make sure to carry plenty of water- 3 to 5 litres per day per person. Heatstroke and dehydration pose a great risk with hardly any shade available on the path.
• To avoid burns and injuries in the merciless sun, wear a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and appropriate SPF body protection.
• Due to lower daily temperatures, spring and autumn are the best periods to set out on the coastal hike.
• Mobile phone signal is limited in large parts of the Agriates.
• During storms, the trail may receive sudden floods, particularly in stream delta areas.
• Wild camping is prohibited along the littoral path.
• Litter and waste must be collected and disposed of properly.
• Fires and barbeques are prohibited.

HOW TO VISIT DESERT DES AGRIATES?

ON FOOT

Virgin beaches of the Agriates are accessible on foot by the coastal custom officers’ path starting at Plage de la Roya in Saint Florent. The 37-km-long trail offers shorter walks to pearly-white sandy bays and rocky coves. Pleasant family excursions lead to Fume Santu (1h30) or Plage du Lotu (4h45).

A longer walk to the iconic Plage de Saleccia requires 5h30 hiking and another 2h45 to get to the solitary Plage de Ghignu. Ostriconi, the last beach of the desert, is located 6 more hours away.

To limit the time spent on the trail, you may start your journey at the Anse de Fornali car park, situated 2.2 km from La Roya. Although unpaved, the access road is wide and of good quality, allowing for regular (not 4WD) cars to park near the pretty Fornali Cove and its lighthouse

Due to the very high temperatures during summer, water and sun protection are essential when visiting this untamed territory.

BY MOUNTAIN BIKE / QUAD BIKE

The bumpy dirt tracks of the Agriates are well suited for mountain biking, granting a thrilling outdoor adventure amid Mediterranean vegetation.

You may rent an electric mountain bicycle at the Relais de Saleccia hotel (www.hotel-corse-saleccia.com) located in Casta at the beginning of a 13 km long piste heading to Saleccia. Apart from telescopic fork suspension for comfortable off-road biking, you will also be equipped with a repair kit, a helmet and a lock.

The beach of Saleccia can be reached in 1h30, although it takes around 2h to come back due to the elevation difference.

Quad bikes available for rent on-site allow people of different fitness levels to travel together, equally enjoying day-long excursions.

E-bike rentals start at 28€ for half a day and 60€ for a full day. A quad bike costs respectively 130€ and 200€.

IN A 4WD VEHICLE

Off-road trails traversing Desert des Agriates may be comfortably navigated on board raised 4×4 vehicles. Various providers offer shuttle services to the desert’s most famous beaches- Lotu, Saleccia and Ghignu. Navettes run all day long from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. with prices oscillating at around 30€ per person for a round trip.

Shuttle vehicles depart from the village of Casta, where a 13 km trail descends to the coast through Corsican maquis. It takes about 1 hour to get to Saleccia and just over an hour to reach the beach of Lotu. Ghignu, an isolated paradisiacal beauty spot with pure water, is located 2h-drive away from the departure point in Casta. Guided trips in air-conditioned all-terrain cars departing from several locations are another attractive option for visitors looking to experience the territory’s most beautiful spots.

In season, there are also 4WD connections between Saleccia and Lotu running via the scrub-covered headland. For convenience, you may book a ride to one of the beaches and a pick-up from the other to allow for a relaxing walk along the coastal path. Another popular way to visit the Agriates is to combine a 4×4 ride with a boat trip.

IMP TIP : 4×4 rides are not recommended for pregnant women and people with back problems.

BY BOAT

The easiest and the most pleasant way to visit Desert des Agriates and its sublime beaches is by boat. Numerous maritime shuttle operators offer sea transfers from the port in Saint Florent to Plage du Lotu and Plage de Saleccia. From a variety of transport options, you may choose a formula that best suits your needs and preferences.

Le Popeye (www.lepopeye.com) runs shuttle services on two tourist ships with a capacity of 97 and 220 passengers. An enjoyable trip along the Agriates’ shoreline to Plage du Lotu takes around 20 minutes, with disembarkment at the beach’s pier.

In season, the boats depart every hour throughout the day with prices for a round trip starting at 18€ (12€ for children). It is advisable to reserve tickets in advance as sea trips to the Agriates are very popular.

ABOARD A SEMI-RIGID SPEEDBOAT

Another way to access the beaches of the desert is aboard a fast semi-rigid carrying a maximum of 12 people. Taxi boats depart every hour starting from 8 a.m., with rates at 20-30€ for a round trip. As vessels arrive directly onto the shore, people with limited mobility may find it difficult to get off.

To make the most of your excursion to the desert’s wild landscapes, you may plan a combined trip that includes a boat ride, a 4×4 journey or a walk.

Alternatively, you may choose to explore the coastal paradise at your own pace in a family rigid-inflatable available for rent from Plaisir Nautic (www.plaisirnautic.fr) or Dominique Plaisance (www.dominiqueplaisance). A full day’s autonomy aboard a small 6-seater costs 170€ in the high season. The rates for the largest boats that require a license go up to 400-500€ per day.

IMP TIP : small speedboats are not recommended for pregnant women, people with back problems, heart problems, or other serious medical conditions. In case of any of the above, choose a larger craft when booking your sea excursion.

BY KAYAK / STAND-UP PADDLE

Kayaking or paddling along the shoreline of the Agriates offers a uniquely peaceful way to experience the desert’s rugged beauty. Under the dazzling Mediterranean sun, an intoxicating blend of warm aquamarine water and the coast’s vivid vegetation allows one to become fully immersed in Corsica’s natural wonders.

Before setting out, check the forecast for the best weather conditions. A calm, dry day with wind speeds below 10 knots/12mph provides safe kayaking conditions. Stronger winds form high, overflowing waves that are difficult to navigate. When in doubt, consult with the rental service.

Agriates Kayak (www.agriateskayak.com), located at the Roya beach in Saint Florent provides paddles for 25€ for a day (15€/1h) and a selection of kayaks with prices from 40€ per day (15€/1h).

6 MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES OF THE AGRIATES

1. VALDOLESE BEACH – INTOXICATING MEDITERRANEAN SCENERY

Plage de Valdolese (Fiume Bughju), a 200 m-long white-sand cove located at the estuary of a small stream, is the first remote beach of the Agriates. Dominated by a 150 m high granite spur shrouded in the herb-scented maquis, this quiet, turquoise-water inlet offers unspoilt coastal scenery. Sheltered from strong winds by two rocky headlands, it is popular with families looking for a peaceful retreat. As there are no services at the beach, bring your own food and water.

HOW TO GET THERE

Located only 2.5 km from Anse de Fornali, where you may leave your car, the beach is easily accessible via the coastal path. A relaxing 30-minute walk affords beautiful views of Cap Corse and Saint Florent Bay.

For a more soothing experience, you may visit Valdolese in a kayak or on a paddle. Travel by sea will also allow you to explore innumerable rocky inlets dotting this scenic stretch of the coast.

There are no organized boat transfers to the beach.

2. FIUME SANTU BEACH – JEWEL-COLOURED IDYLLIC LAGOON

The postcard-perfect aquamarine lagoon of Fiume Santu is located 850 m further along the coastal path. With crystal-clear water sheltered from waves by maquis-covered hills, it is a popular, quiet anchor bay. Also known for its rich underwater life, the cove remains an esteemed destination among diving clubs and marine environment enthusiasts.

Due to a large number of boats mooring at Fiume Santu in the high season, the swimming area is often limited. Outside the peak period, this idyllic beach offers a crowd-free abundance of natural beauty.

As the bay has no facilities, you will have to bring your own food supplies and water.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fiume Santu is located 1h30min from the Roya beach in Saint Florent along the littoral trail. Starting your hike at Anse de Fornali will cut your trekking time by 30 minutes.

Before setting out, check the forecasts to make sure weather conditions are stable. During periods of heavy rain, floods may occur downstream of the river that flows into the bay.

You may also access the beach by sea, onboard a rented boat or in a kayak. Shuttle services running from Saint Florent do not service Fiume Santu.

3. LOTU BEACH – AZURE EXPANSE OF CRYSTALLINE WATER

Famous for its glistening white sand and turquoise water of exceptional clarity, Plage du Lotu is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Corsica. 400 m long, it is tucked between Punta Cavallata and Punta di Ravjola, a pair of headlands providing shelter to this shallow bay. Bordered by the Agriates’ aromatic maquis, Lotu offers a true oasis of undisturbed coastal scenery with a tropical ambience popular among families and lovers of snorkelling.

In the summer months, Cabane du Lodu, a beach hut located a 2-minute walk away from the cove, serves meals and beverages. Credit cards are not accepted. Otherwise, there are no facilities available at the beach.

HOW TO GET THERE

The easiest way to reach Plage du Lotu is by boat. Le Popeye offers sea shuttle services with departures every half hour from the marina of Saint Florent. Tickets may be purchased at the operator’s office in the port. Another possibility to get to Lotu fast is on board a taxi boat from the town.

Le Sentier des Douaniers, running along the picturesque shoreline, provides footpath access to the beach. A scenic 4h45 walk rewards hikers with sweeping views of Saint Florent Bay, offering an opportunity to explore the coast’s top landmarks- the Fornali Whitehouse and a famous Genoese tower, Tour de Mortella. To avoid walking back, you may take a boat ride departing from the beach’s pier to Saint Florent.

From Lotu, it is only a short, 45-minute walk via the headland piste to Plage de Saleccia where, in summer months, 4WD tour operators run connections between the two beaches. The longer trail by the shore is more peaceful and dust-free.

If you fancy an off-road drive, 4×4 shuttles run excursions through the desert from the village of Casta. The 20 km ride takes just over an hour, with prices starting at 30€. You may also rent an all-terrain e-bike or a quad bike at the Relais de Saleccia hotel.

If you prefer a more immersive experience with stops in the area’s best spots, join one of the popular guided trips to this gorgeous beach.

4. SALECCIA BEACH – ARCHETYPAL PARADISE BEACH

Plage de Saleccia, the pearl of the Agriates, is classified among the most beautiful beaches in Europe. Bordered by fragrant pine trees, the white dunes of this 1-kilometre-long curve slope gently into intensely blue, crystal clear water. Due to its exposed position, Saleccia becomes a true spectacle of nature in windy conditions. Otherwise, its shallow shores are a treasured retreat for families travelling with children. The beach is equally popular with pleasure boats and yachts anchoring offshore and may get crowded in the high season.

Due to its isolated position, Saleccia played an important role during World War II. It was here that the Casablanca submarine, now exhibited on the Place St-Nicols in Bastia, landed to deliver weapons to the resistance forces in 1943.

The silver sands of Saleccia were also chosen by the creators of The Longest Day, a film produced in 1961, as a location for the Normandy landings.

A Piniccia, a restaurant located behind the beach, provides meals, cold drinks, shower facilities and a toilet.

Hikers may find accommodation at the U Paradisu camping, situated 300 m inland from the west end of Saleccia. Eight pagliaghi, simple lodgings equipped with hot water and toilet, caravans and 50 tent sites are best booked in advance.

HOW TO GET THERE

Taxi boats departing from the port of Saint Florent provide the quickest access to Plage de Saleccia. The trip aboard a fast semi-rigid lasts around 20 minutes, with prices starting at 25€ for a round trip. Tickets may be purchased from the providers at the marina or online.

Active travellers who love outdoor adventures may take on a scenic 5h30 hike to the beach. Le Sentier des Douaniers, running from Saint Florent to Saleccia, passes through key coastal attractions of the Agriates, allowing to take in the unforgettable Corsican scenery. For a relaxing journey back, book a return trip aboard one of the shuttle boats.

Just as the beach of Lotu, Saleccia may also be reached via a 12 km long dirt track that crosses the barren landscapes of the desert. Before reaching the coast, the path splits, with the left branch leading to Saleccia. The choice of transport depends on your preferences and level of fitness, ranging from all-terrain e-bikes and quads to comfortable 4WD vehicles providing travel services from the village of Casta. Additionally, you may opt for a combined 4WD-boat tour.

5. GHIGNU BEACH – VIRGIN GATAWAY FOR LOVERS OF NATURE

Nestled in the heart of the Agriates, Plage de Ghignu is a true corner of paradise. The most remote among the desert’s beaches, Ghignu boasts 400 m of pearly white sand and translucent water protected by a large dune from the north. Being secluded, Ghignu remains peaceful even in high season, with only a handful of pleasure boats anchored by the shores of this unspoilt cove.

As there are no services at the beach, bring your own food, water and appropriate sun protection.

Behind the inlet, Les Paillers de Ghignu, a refuge run by Conservatoire de Littolar, offers simple accommodation. The pagliaghji, former stone sheepfolds, may house between 4 and 6 people. Sanitary facilities are collective, and there is no drinking water available other than bottles that may be purchased from the site’s caretaker. Detailed information is available at www.agriate.org/les-paillers-ghignu.

HOW TO GET THERE

With no maritime shuttle operators providing connections, the beach of Ghignu is not easy to reach. To access it by sea, consider renting a small semi-rigid from one of the boat hire companies based in the port of Saint Florent. Prices depend on the model and capacity of the vessel, starting at around 170-200€ per day.

Land access to Ghignu is possible in a raised 4×4 vehicle via a potholed 13 km long piste with a starting point at Bozza di Vezzu. It may take up to 1h30 of meandering through the wild landscapes of the Agriates to reach the beach. Guided trips depart from various locations on the island’s north coast.

If you prefer autonomy, you may hire a 4WD vehicle for a desired period. A small 2-seater costs 110€ for a day, whereas the cost of an air-conditioned 4×4 for 7 people goes up to 200€.

Experienced bikers may enjoy an off-road ride to this paradisiacal cove. However, with bare rock rising from the dusty track in various places, navigating the route requires biking skills coupled with physical strength.

To reach Plage de Ghignu on foot from Saleccia, continue along the coastal trail for 2h45. Competent hikers starting their excursion from Ostriconi will need 6h30 to cover the spectacular western stretch of the Sentier des Douaniers route, while a trip from Saint Florent requires 8 hours of trekking.

6. OSTRICONI BEACH – WILD BEAUTY OF UNSPOILT LANDSCAPES

Plage de l’Ostriconi, otherwise known as the beach of Perajola, is renowned for its rugged beauty. Wild and windswept, the 700 m-long stretch of white sand is braced by dunes covered in the aromatic maquis. In the back, the still surface of a river’s large delta serves as a source of drinking water for strolling cows.

Excellent snorkelling spots are located on each side of the beach. In calm weather, the rocky coves of the eastern end provide an opportunity to view incredibly diverse marine life.

Situated at the beginning of Desert des Agriates, Ostriconi is a starting (or an arrival) point of the coastal trail Sentier des Douaniers.

In summer, the beach is supervised as its turquoise waters may be dangerous for swimmers in rough weather due to strong undercurrents. Dogs on a lead are allowed. No other facilities are available on site; therefore, bring your own umbrella and snacks.

HOW TO GET THERE

Plage de l’Ostriconi is easily accessible either on foot or by car. From Ile Rousse, take the main T30 route towards Bastia. After 15 km, turn left into a road signposted for Camping de l’Ostriconi, where you will soon find a large parking area.

From there, a 1-kilometer-long path meandering through fragrant vegetation leads across the river to the beach’s white dunes.

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